Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
The river averages about 200 to 300 yards but differs much in places
and there are numerous side channels (sloughs). It is crooked; many
bends. The current is quite marked, stated to run 4 to 6 miles an hour.
The water is charged with grayish-brown silt, part from glaciers higher
above, part from banks that are being "cut." The banks are entirely
silt, no trace of gravel or stone. Indian camps getting very scarce.
Boat making good time, but now and then requires careful manipulation,
with its big, heavy barge in front. Once driven to shore, but no
damage, and after some effort gets away again. No trouble yet from
mosquitoes, but there are some horseflies.
Pass a large camp--a Finn married to a squaw, and three or four Indian
families--all snug in a clearing of the fresh-looking woods on the bank
of the river.
Bend after bend in the stream, and boat has to follow them all, and
more, for the current and deeper water are now near this bank and again
at the opposite bank.
The water in many places is undermining the bank, exposing frozen
strata of silt. The top often falls in without breaking, with trees and
all, and it then looks like heavy, ragged mats hanging over the bank,
with green trees or bushes dipping into the water, and perhaps a clump
of wild roses projecting from the sward. There are many low bushes of
wild roses in this country, pink and red kinds, now blooming. Also many
small bushes of wild berries--cranberries (low and high), raspberries,
dewberries or blueberries.
Meat is imported even to here from Seattle, and carried far down the
Yukon. When received they place it in a "cellar" or hole dug down to
the frozen ground and place the meat there--a natural and thoroughly
efficient refrigerator.
Past Old Minto, a little Indian village, a few little log houses in a
row facing the river, with a wheel fish trap in front (pl. 1, _a_).
Later a few Indian houses and a "road house" with a store at Tolovana.
Most Indians there (and elsewhere here) died of the "flu" in 1918, the
bodies being left and later buried by the Government. A few isolated
little Indian camps.
The boat ties to trees along the banks. No docks or anything of that
nature. Not many mosquitoes yet, more horseflies, which, however, do
not bother man very much.
After reaching Hot Springs (right bank), there is seen a long range of
more or less forested, fairly steep-sloped hills along the right bank,
coming right down to the water's edge for miles, with bush and forested
flats opposite. At the end of one of the ravines with a little stream,
right on the bank, remnants of a little glacier melting very slowly in
the sun. Strange contrast, ice and green touching. Boat making good
time along the hills.
June 18. Hardly any sleep. Sun set after 10 and rose about 2.30, with
no more than dusk between. Then heat in the cabin, and above all the
noises. The boat stuck five hours on a bar and there were all sorts of
jerks and shudders and calls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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