Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
Above the palace, within the narrowing tongue of the
circumvallation, the space is occupied by the substructures
of the keep, over which we clamber to the parapets of the
outer wall. Beside us, the square tower at the extreme end
of the fortress frowns out upon the knife-like ridge between
the ravines. It is probable that this tower is composed of a
solid mass, for one cannot trace any sign of a passage in. The
battlements of the wall rise to a height of nearly 200 feet
above the western ravine. Just on the east of the tower is placed
the only entrance to the citadel from the side of the ridge. It
consists of a long passage, flanked by a parallel outer wall,
and abutting on a huge angular tower. But the inner doorway is
now walled up, and one is obliged to retrace one's steps to the
middle fortress, in order to pass without the walls.
The gate is situated just below the entrance to the citadel, in
the wall on the east. It too is furnished with double doors, which,
like their neighbours, have been riddled by musket fire. South of
this gateway there is just enough room between the wall and the
edge of the eastern ravine to permit of a narrow road. Leaving
the interior of the fortress, one is taken along this road,
with the wooded precipice on one hand and on the other the
ivy-grown battlements. Peasants, carrying baskets, pass by on
their way to market; and beneath a fig tree, teeming with fruit,
some Mussulman women, resting from their wayfaring, cower within
their veils as we approach. The colossal angular tower projects
from the head of the irregular wall towards the leafy abyss,
a large inscription gleaming white upon the wall which faces us,
the record of the conquest of Mohammed II.
But the point at which you pause is at the head of the
fortification, beneath the soaring escarpment of the square
tower. It is the same site upon which the peoples from the remote
recesses of Asia have stood with the lust of conquest in their
eyes. On the opposite bank of the eastern ravine the drum-shaped
dome of St. Eugenius rises from among a cluster of red-roofed
villas. It was there that the Seljuk sultan issued his threats and
insults, while the Greek emperor fasted and prayed. From within
the limits of that same sanctuary were heard the shouts of the
revellers, mingling with the voices of their concubines. And
a white minaret proclaims the event of the long and unequal
struggle between the full-blooded followers of the Prophet and
the emaciated children of the Cross.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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