Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
The tower itself has evidently been built at a later period than
the wall from which it rises in a continuous face. The colour of
the stone is slightly paler, and an inscription, now much decayed,
attests it to be the work of the Emperor John the Fourth, the
last but one of the Comnenian dynasty. The ground widens like
a fan from the foot of this tower, and the ravines, which have
almost met, diverge and become great valleys, stretching into the
bosom of the hills. Within that ampler space, a few hundred yards
south of the fortress, one may still recognise the enclosure of
the hippodrome and the great gateway on its northern side. The
wall still rises in places to a height of from six to ten feet,
but all the interior structures have disappeared. A field of
tobacco grows upon the site. Adjoining the gateway, and facing
the palace, one is impressed by the shape and appearance of a
projecting tongue of land with a flat top. The theatre may once
have stood upon this spot.
The ancient churches of Trebizond, some converted into mosques
and others into public baths, are among the most interesting
relics which the town contains. Retracing our steps to the
middle fortress and to the road which joins the two ravines,
we have almost reached the bridge over the westerly depression
before attaining the old cathedral, sacred to the golden-headed
Virgin, of which the southern wall borders our road on the north
(No. 18). How bare and bleak it looks, shorn of its southern and
western porches, and covered with a thick coating of whitewash! A
little court, paved with flagstones, adjoins it on the east,
over which you pass to an entrance at the north-east corner which
has destroyed the side apse on that side. If you scrutinise the
outer wall of the principal apse, you may still distinguish
beneath the whitewash a design of figures in mosaic, one of
which perhaps represents the seated Virgin. Time has worn down
the few sculptured mouldings of which any trace remains. There
is little to attract the eye in this mangled group of gables,
surmounted by the drum of a duodecagonal dome. On the northern
side rises the minaret, adjoining the principal entrance which
has made use of the old porch on the north. Four marble pillars
with Ionic capitals, probably the spoil of some pagan temple,
support the roof of this spacious porch. We are about to enter,
when we are called aside to observe an old fountain in the court
on the east. It contains a marble slab with a Greek inscription,
which is illegible; and the water issues from a much-worn bronze
spout, representing the head of a serpent or dragon, which is
said to have belonged to a bronze model of such a monster, killed
by the spear of Alexius the First. Near the fountain is a tomb,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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