Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces — John Shaqi
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
Returning to the commercial quarter from the narrow alleys which
surround this building, we pass an old house which is an example
of a style of architecture now rapidly being replaced by the
modern villa. The exterior, with its projecting upper storey
and semicircular, roofed balcony, where the inmates would enjoy
the freshness of the afternoon, produces an impression at once
of somewhat costly solidity and of picturesque charm. The rooms
are panelled in wood, both walls and ceilings; and screens of
open woodwork, placed before the windows, preserve the privacy
of the life within. In the little niches and in the details of
the ornamentation the spirit is that of Persian art.
The magazines of the merchants are situated along the shore between
the fortified city and the point of Güzel Serai. Proceeding
eastwards, we need scarcely stop to visit the Greek cathedral
(No. 12), a large modern building of extraordinary ugliness on the
margin of the sea. On the south side of this pretentious church we
are shown the tomb of the last of the Georgian kings. A road leads
upwards through the crowded Christian quarter, Frank Mahalla, past
the wall and tower of Güzel Serai (No. 10). These buildings date,
I believe, from a comparatively recent period; but they occupy
the site of the famous fortress of Leontocastron, long in dispute
between the Comnenian emperor and the Genoese. The companion
fort of Daphnus, another Genoese possession, probably stood in
the bay on the west, where the quarter of Dia Funda, an Italian
corruption of the Greek name, faces the modern anchorage. The
walls of Güzel Serai overlook a park of artillery, drawn up on
a grassy platform at the point.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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