Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
Our walk through the eastern suburb may be protracted to the slope
of Boz Tepe, where an ancient nunnery, famous for its frescos,
commands the landscape of the city from a well-chosen site just
outside its extreme fringe (No. 6). Adjacent to the building,
which presents the appearance of a fortress, was placed the
summer residence or pleasure-house whence the Grand-Comneni used
to survey their beauteous capital. I can well remember the ruin
of this palace, with its blank windows, such a pleasant frame
to the charming view which they overlooked. Alas! this fragment
has disappeared, to make room for an ugly guest-house which the
avaricious nuns have built in its place. The chapel of the nunnery,
dedicated to the Virgin, Panagia Theoskepastos, is built into the
side of the cliff, its inner end being, in fact, a cave. Damp
has blurred the frescos; but one may still recognise the royal
portraits upon the north wall. The upper portions of two kingly
figures, attired in purple robes, and on their right hand, side
by side, two queens with jewelled crowns, still colour the mouldy
side of the cave, and are almost hidden by a row of stalls. They
have been identified by inscriptions which, I presume, have become
effaced, as Alexius III. and his queen Theodora; as Andronicus
and Eirene, mother respectively and son of the first-named prince.
Nor should the traveller omit a visit to the church of St. Eugenius
(No. 19), although he may not have time to visit the grottoes in
the face of Boz Tepe, and to protract the excursion beyond the
embouchure of the Pyxitis to the site of Xenophon's camp. That
famous church is situated in the opposite direction, and has been
already mentioned in the description of the upper fortress. It
stands on the margin of the eastern ravine, almost opposite to
the great polygonal tower. The site is separated from the slopes
of Boz Tepe by a second and smaller ravine, which shows remains,
on the western bank, of walls and towers. Houses cluster round
the building, their horizontal outlines topped by its gables and
crowned by its polygonal, drum-shaped dome. St. Eugenius dates from
the period of the Grand-Comneni; but the frescos on the western
wall, which some travellers have noticed, are now nothing more
than patches of colour. It is a somewhat larger edifice than
Hagia Sophia, which, although less graceful, it resembles in
some respects. The dome rests upon two fluted columns on the
west side, while, on the east, it is supported by piers. A
flood of light fills the interior, which is plain and bare,
the church having been converted to the service of Islam by the
Ottoman conqueror. It was here that Mohammed II. is said to have
worshipped on the first Friday after the capture of the city by
his troops. The event is commemorated by the name of New Friday
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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