Aspects of nature, in different lands and different climates (Vol. 1 of 2): with scientific elucidationsHumboldt, Alexander von
Science
Aspects of nature, in different lands and different climates (Vol. 1 of 2): with scientific elucidations
Humboldt, Alexander von
Physical geography; Plant morphology; Science; South America -- Description and travel
The rocks which, where the Columbia breaks through the Chain, form the
Cataracts, mark the continuation of the Sierra Nevada de California
from the 44th to the 47th degree of latitude. (Frémont, Geographical
Memoir upon Upper California, 1848, p. 6.) This northern continuation
comprises the three colossal summits of Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood,
and Mount St. Helen’s, which rise more than 14540 French or 15500
English feet above the level of the sea. The height of this Coast
Chain, or Range, far exceeds, therefore, that of the Rocky Mountains.
“During a journey of eight months’ duration which was made along the
Maritime Alps,” says Captain Frémont, in his Report, p. 274, “we had
snowy peaks always in view; we had surmounted the Rocky Mountains by
the South Pass at an elevation of 7027 (7490 E.) feet, but we found the
passes of the Maritime Alps, which are divided into several parallel
ranges, more than 2000 feet higher;” therefore, only about 1170 feet
(1247 E.) below the summit of Etna. It is extremely remarkable,
and reminds us of the difference between the eastern and western
cordilleras of Chili, that it is only the chain of mountains nearest
to the sea (the Californian range), which has still active volcanoes.
The conical mountains of Regnier and St. Helen’s are seen to emit smoke
almost constantly, and on the 23rd of November 1843, Mount St. Helen’s
sent forth a quantity of ashes which covered the banks of the Columbia
for forty miles like snow. To the volcanic Coast Range also belong, (in
Russian America in the high north), Mount St. Elias, 1980 toises high,
according to La Perouse, and 2792 toises, according to Malaspina (12660
and 17850 E. feet), and Mount Fair Weather, (Cerro de Buen Tempo) 2304
toises, or 14732 E. feet high. Both these mountains are supposed to
be still active volcanoes. Frémont’s expedition, (which was important
alike for its botanical and geological results), collected volcanic
products, such as scoriaceous basalt, trachyte, and even obsidian, in
the Rocky Mountains, and found an extinct volcanic crater a little to
the east of Fort Hall, (lat. 43° 2′, long. 112° 28′ W.); but there are
no signs of volcanoes still active, that is to say, emitting at times
lava or ashes. We are not to confound with such activity the still
imperfectly explained phenomenon of “smoking hills;” “côtes brûlées,”
or “terrains ardens,” as they are called by the English settlers,
and by natives speaking French. An accurate observer, M. Nicollet,
says, “ranges of low conical hills are covered with a thick black
smoke almost periodically, and often for two or three years together.
No flames are seen.” This phenomenon shews itself principally in
the district of the Upper Missouri, and still nearer to the eastern
declivity of the Rocky Mountains, where a river bears the native name
of Mankizitah-Watpa, or the “river of the smoking earth.” Scoriaceous
pseudo-volcanic products, such as a kind of porcelain jasper, are found
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