Aspects of nature, in different lands and different climates (Vol. 1 of 2): with scientific elucidationsHumboldt, Alexander von
Science
Aspects of nature, in different lands and different climates (Vol. 1 of 2): with scientific elucidations
Humboldt, Alexander von
Physical geography; Plant morphology; Science; South America -- Description and travel
in the vicinity of the “smoking hills.” Since the expedition of Lewis
and Clark an opinion has become prevalent that the Missouri deposits
real pumice on its banks. Fine cellular whitish masses have been
confounded with pumice. Professor Ducatel was disposed to ascribe this
appearance, which was principally observed in the chalk formation, to a
“decomposition of water by sulphuric pyrites, and to a reaction on beds
of lignite.” (Compare Frémont’s Report, p. 164, 184, 187, 193, and 299,
with Nicollet’s Illustration of the Hydrographical Basin of the Upper
Mississipi River, 1843, p. 39-41.)
If, in concluding these few general considerations on the physical
geography of North America, we once more turn our attention to the
spaces which separate the two diverging coast chains from the central
chain, we find, in striking contrast, on the one hand, the arid
uninhabited plateau of above five or six thousand feet elevation, which
in the west intervenes between the central chain and the Californian
Maritime Alps which skirt the Pacific; and on the eastern side of
the Rocky Mountains, between them and the Alleghanies, (the highest
summits of which, Mount Washington and Mount Marcy, are, according to
Lyell, 6240 and 5066 French, or 6652 and 5400 English feet above the
level of the sea,) the vast, well-watered, and fertile low plain or
basin of the Mississipi, the greater part of which is from 400 to 600
French feet above the level of the sea, or about twice the elevation of
the plains of Lombardy. The hypsometric conformation of this eastern
region, _i. e._ the altitude of its several parts above the sea, has
been elucidated by the valuable labours of the highly-talented French
astronomer, Nicollet, of whom science has been deprived by a too early
death. His large and excellent map of the Upper Mississipi, constructed
in the years 1836-1840, is based on 240 astronomically determined
latitudes, and 170 barometric measurements of elevation. The plain
which contains the basin of the Mississipi is one with the Northern
Canadian plain, so that one low region extends from the Gulf of Mexico
to the Arctic Sea. (Compare my Rélation Historique T. iii. p. 234, and
Nicollet’s Report to the Senate of the United States, 1843, p. 7 and
57.) Where the plain is undulating, and where, between 47° and 48° of
latitude, low hills (côteaux des prairies, and côteaux des bois, in
the still un-English nomenclature of the natives) occur in connected
ranges, these ranges and gentle swellings of the ground divide the
waters which flow towards Hudson’s Bay from those which seek the Gulf
of Mexico. Such a dividing line is formed north of Lake Superior
by the Missabay Heights, and more to the west by the “Hauteurs des
Terres,” in which were first discovered, in 1832, the true sources of
the Mississipi, one of the largest rivers in the world. The highest of
these ranges of hills hardly attains an elevation of 1400 to 1500 (1492
to 1599 English) feet. From St.
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