The head-gear is various, but often takes the form of a felt hat with saucer brim and ribbons not unlike that of the Breton peasant. This is for summer; in winter a kind of cap of lamb-skin replaces it. It must not, of course, be supposed that in such a town as Budapest these gay costumes will be seen everywhere. It is necessary to get out into the towns of the Alföld, to Temesvar or Debreczen, or into Transylvania to see them, elsewhere up in the Carpathians far beyond the well-known pleasure resorts of the High Tátra, and even then, though the dress may be in essentials as described, it is only on high days and holy days all the best materials, ribbons, laces, and gay colours are to be seen in their glory. CHAPTER VI THE AUSTRIAN DANUBE The Danube is the second largest river in Europe, its only superior being the Volga. Out of its whole course of some 1750 miles about half may be claimed by Austria-Hungary. Not only are the capitals of both kingdoms situated on it, but the largest rivers in the Dual Monarchy are its tributaries. The general trend of the Danube in its course is fairly well known. It enters Austria near Passau, and flows irregularly eastward to Vienna, then, in something the same direction, on to Budapest, above which it turns exceedingly sharply, almost at a right angle, and continues due south. On receiving the waters of the Drave on its right bank it reverts once more to its original direction, continuing south-eastward. The Drave is the northern boundary of Croatia-Slavonia, dividing it from Hungary proper, of which at present it forms an unwilling part. The Theiss or Tisza, which has crossed Hungary from the north in a roughly parallel course to the Danube after Budapest, but with a much more irregular course, now comes in on the left bank. The Save shortly after runs in on the same side as the Drave, having for the greater part of its course performed the useful function of marking the boundary between the south of Croatia-Slavonia--which thus lies between two rivers--and Bosnia, and then the reinforced Danube, itself now the boundary between Hungary and Servia, flows to Orsova and the world-famous Iron Gates, before passing on between Roumania and Bulgaria to the Black Sea.