Austria -- Description and travel; Hungary -- Description and travel
The Danube Steam Navigation Company, to say nothing of others, runs an
excellent series of steamboats, with reasonable fares, for all who care
to see something of the fine scenery through which the Danube passes in
part of its course. In winter the higher reaches are often frozen and
traffic is interrupted, but in summer the whole trip, from Passau to
the Iron Gates, is a delightful one, giving an insight into the heart
of the country. The danger from floods has been commented on, but this
is caused by melting snow and is not to be feared in summer. At one
time rapids made parts of the passage so dangerous that the sensation
surpassed mere excitement and became something worse, but by a steady
policy of clearing away difficulties and blowing up rocks much has been
done to render the passage safe without spoiling its fine effects.
Not the least interesting point of the trip is the strange medley of
nationalities one is sure to meet on the boat; Austrians, Germans,
Turks, Dalmatians, Jews, Slavs, and Hungarians are mingled in odd
disorder, and the clamour of tongues produces a veritable Babel. This
indeed gives a variety of life and colour often absent from other trips
which may have as much to offer in the way of scenery.
Passau itself, a quaint, old-fashioned, irregular place, is in Bavaria,
but as it is only a short distance from the Austrian border, it is
usually made the starting-place by those who wish particularly to
traverse Austria-Hungary. The river Inn, which flows into the Danube
at Passau, greatly increases its volume and gives another reason for
starting here. Not far below Passau, in mid-stream, standing out more
or less according to the state of the water, is the great rock which
breaks the current in twain and marks the meeting-place of the two
countries. This is called the Jochenstein, or Joachim’s stone. The
respective Governments have been careful to impress their insignia on
their own sides of it. There is something more impressive about an
unusual barrier like this, with the fugitive water speeding past it
from Bavaria into Austria at the rate of tons every second, than about
the more prosaic landmarks usually found.
The scenery, taken generally, is varied and beautiful; there are
sometimes stern cliffs standing out at an angle, so that the current
winds round to pass them, and sometimes they form a grand defile. Many
are bare and rocky, others fir-clad, and constantly the grey ruins of
an ancient castle may be seen perched on some boss, worn by age and
weather to a likeness of the rock on which it stands, an unconscious
manifestation that “protective” colouring is found elsewhere than in
living species and an argument against the theory associated with it!
Every castle has its own tradition, readily repeated and religiously
believed, like that of Schneiderschlossel, where a bishop and a goat
and a tailor are mixed in equal proportions, making up a capital story.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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