To every intelligent young American, indeed, the first glimpse of
England is something more than a mere introduction to a new country;
it is as though the sun had gone back upon the dial of history, and had
carried one bodily from the democratic modern order of tilings into
the midst of an older semifeudal and vastly more heterogeneous state of
society. But to Hiram Winthrop in particular, that journey by the London
and North-Western Line from Liverpool to Euston was, as it were, a new
spiritual birth, a first transference into the one world for which
alone he was congenitally fitted. Audouin himself, with his cold Boston
criticism and his cultivated indifference, was quite surprised at the
young man's undisguised enthusiasm. All along the line, the panorama of
England seemed but one long unfolding of half-familiar wonders--things
pictured, and read about, and dreamt of, for many years, yet never
before beheld or realised. First it was the carefully tilled fields,
the trim hedges, the parks and gardens, the snug English farmhouses, the
endless succession of cultivated land, and beautiful pleasure grounds,
and well-timbered copses. Hiram cast his eye back upon Syracuse and the
deacon's farm with a feeling of awe and gratitude. Great heavens, what a
contrast from the bare wheat fields and treeless roads and long unlovely
snake-fences of Geauga County! Here, in fact, was tillage that even the
deacon would have admired as good farming, and yet it had not succeeded
in defacing the natural beauty of the undulating Cheshire country, but
had rather actually improved and heightened it. Yes, this was Cheshire,
and those were Cheshire cows, ultimately responsible for the historical
Cheshire cheeses; while yonder was a Cheshire cat, sleeping lazily on
an ivy-grown wall, though Hiram was fain to admit, without the grin for
which alone the Cheshire cat is proverbially famous. Ivy--lie had never
seen ivy before--ay, ivy actually clinging to an old church tower, a
tower that even Hiram's unaccustomed eyes could readily date back to the
Plantagenet period. That church positively had a rector; and the broken
stone by the yew-tree in the churchyard (Sam Churchill being witness)
was the last relic of the carved cross of Catholic antiquity. And those
little white flowers scattered over the pastures, Audouin told him, were
really daisies. Take it how he would, Hiram could hardly believe his own
senses, that here he was, being whirled by an express train in a small
oblong box of a thing they called a first-class compartment, right
across the very face of that living fossil of a country, beautiful,
old-fashioned, antique England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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