Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
The furs to which the old-time hatter gave preference were the beaver,
the muskrat, the nutria, the hare and the rabbit, of which the first
was by far the most valuable. These animals all have two kinds of hair
on their skins, the innermost of which is short and fine as down, the
outermost, thick, long and more sparing, the former being of much use,
the latter of no value to the hatter. After receiving the "skins" or
"pelts," which are greasy and dirty, they are first cleaned with soap
and water, then carried to the "pulling-room," where women are
employed in pulling out the coarse outer hairs from the skins, which
is done by means of a knife acting against the thumb, the fingers and
thumb being guarded by a short leather shield. The skins are then
taken and the fur cut or "cropped" from them, which is done by men
dexterously using a sharp knife, formed with a round blade, such as is
used now-a-days in the kitchen as a "chopping knife." By keeping this
knife constantly moving across the skin the fur is taken off or
separated without injury to the skin, which is to be tanned for
leather or consigned to the glue factory. The cutting of furs,
however, had become before 1844 a business in some measure conducted
by itself, and a machine had been invented to separate the fur from
the skin, which, though it might be considered now a simple affair,
was at that time looked upon as a wonder.
[Illustration: FUR-CUTTING MACHINE.]
We have said the women in the "pulling-room" cut, tear, or pull out
the long, coarse hairs from the pelts, and that these hairs are
useless to the hatter. But it is impossible completely to separate the
coarse from the fine fur by these means, and therefore the fur, when
cropped from the pelt, is conveyed to the "blowing-room," finally to
effect the separation. The action of the blowing machine is
exceedingly beautiful, and may perhaps be understood without a minute
detail of its mechanism. A quantity of beaver or any other fur is
introduced at one end near a compartment in which a vane or fly is
revolving with a velocity of nearly two thousand rotations in a
minute. We all know, even from a simple example of a lady's fan, that
a body in motion gives rise to a wind or draught, and when the motion
is so rapid as is here indicated, the current becomes very powerful.
This current of air propels the fur along a hollow trunk to the other
end of the machine, and in so doing produces an effect which is as
remarkable as valuable. All the coarse and comparatively valueless fur
is deposited on a cloth stretched along the trunk, while the more
delicate filaments are blown into a receptacle at the other end.
Nothing but a very ingenious arrangement of mechanism could produce a
separation so complete as is here effected; but the principle of
action is not hard to understand. If there were no atmosphere, or if
an inclosed place were exhausted of air, a guinea and a feather,
however unequal in weight, would fall to the ground with equal
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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