Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
velocity, but in ordinary circumstances the guinea would obviously
fall more quickly than the feather, because the resistance of the air
bears a much larger ratio to the weight of the feather than that of
the guinea. As the resistance of air to a moving body acts more
forcibly on a light than a heavy substance, so likewise does air when
in motion and acting as a moving force. When particles of sand or
gravel are driven by the wind, the lightest particles go the greatest
distance. So it is with the two kinds of fur in the "blowing machine,"
those fibers which are finest and lightest are driven to the remote
end of the machine.
[Illustration: BLOWING ENGINE.]
The "body," or "foundation," of a good beaver hat is generally made of
eight parts rabbit's fur, three parts Saxony wool, and one part of
llama, vicunia, or "red" wool. A sufficient quantity of these for one
hat (about two and a half ounces) is weighed out and placed in the
hands of the "bower." On entering the "bowing-room" a peculiar
twanging noise indicates to the visitor that a stretched cord is in
rapid vibration, and the management of this cord by the workman is
seen to be one of the many operations in hatting wherein success
depends exclusively on skillful manipulation. A bench extends along
the front of the room beneath a range of windows, and each "bower" has
a little compartment appropriated to himself. The bow is an ashen
staff from five to seven feet in length, having a strong cord of
catgut stretched over bridges at the two ends. The bow is suspended in
the middle by a string from the ceiling, whereby it hangs nearly on a
level with the work-bench, and the workman thus proceeds: The wool and
coarse fur, first separately and afterwards together, are laid on the
bench, and the bower, grasping the staff of the bow with his left hand
and plucking the cord with his right hand by means of a small piece of
wood, causes the cord to vibrate rapidly against the fur and wool. By
repeating this process for a certain time, all the original clots or
assemblages of filaments are perfectly opened and dilated, and the
fibers, flying upwards when struck, are, by the dexterity of the
workman, made to fall in nearly equal thickness on the bench,
presenting a very light and soft layer of material. Simple as this
operation appears to a stranger, years of practice are required for
the attainment of proficiency in it.
[Illustration: BOWING]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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