Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
The "battery" is a large kettle or boiler open at the top, having a
fire beneath it, and eight planks ascending obliquely from the margin,
so as to form a sort of octagonal work-bench, five or six feet in
diameter, at which eight men may work; the planks are made of lead
near the kettle, and of mahogany at the outer part, and at each plank
a workman operates on a conical cap until the process of felting or
"planking" is completed. The "battery" contains hot water slightly
acidulated with sulphuric acid. The cap is dipped into the hot liquor,
laid on one of the planks, and subjected to a long felting process; it
is rolled and unrolled, twisted, pressed, and rubbed with a piece of
leather or wood tied to the workman's hand, and rolled with a
rolling-pin. From time to time the cap is examined, to ascertain
whether the thickness is sufficient in every part, and if any
defective places appear, they are wet with a brush dipped in the hot
liquor, and a few additional fibers are worked in. Considerable skill
is required in order to preserve such an additional thickness of
material at one part as shall suffice for the brim of the hat. When
this felting process has been continued about two hours, it is found
that the heat, moisture, pressure and friction have reduced the cap to
one-half its former dimensions, the thickness being increased in a
proportionate degree, assuming a conical shape.
The "cap" is then taken to the "water-proofing" or "stiffening" room,
where the odor of gum, resins and spirits gives some intimation of the
materials employed. Gum-lac, gum-sandrach, gum-mastic, resin,
frankincense, copal, caoutchouc, spirits of wine and spirits of
turpentine, are the ingredients (all of a very inflammable nature) of
which the water-proofing is made. This is laid on the cap by means of
a brush, and the workman exercises his skill in regulating the
quantity at different parts, since the strength of the future brim and
crown depends much on this process.
After another heating in a hot room, called "stoving," by which the
spirit is evaporated, the exterior of the cap is scoured with a weak
alkali, to remove a portion of the gummy coating, and thereby enable
the beaver fur with which it is to be "napped" or "coated," to adhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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