Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
A layer of beaver fur is spread, and, by means of the "hardening
stick," is pressed and worked into a very delicate and light felt,
just coherent enough to hold together. This layer, which is called a
"ruffing" or "roughing," is a little larger than the cap-body, and to
unite the two, another visit to the "battery" is necessary. The cap
being softened by immersion in the hot liquor, the "ruffing" is laid
on it, and patted down with a wet brush, a narrow strip of beaver
being laid round the inside of the cap to form the underside of the
future brim. The beavered cap is then wrapped in a woolen cloth,
immersed frequently in the hot liquor, and rolled on the plank for the
space of two hours. The effect of this rubbing and rolling is very
curious, and may be illustrated in a simple manner: if a few fibers of
beaver fur be laid on a piece of broadcloth, covered with tissue
paper, and rubbed gently with the finger, they will penetrate through
the cloth and appear on the opposite side. So, likewise, in the
process of "ruffing," each fiber is set in motion from root to point,
and enters the substance of the felt cap. The hairs proceed in a
pretty straight course, and just enter the felt, with the substance of
which they form an intimate union. But if the rolling and pressing
were continued too long, the hairs would actually pass through the
felt, and be seen on the inside instead of the outside of the cap; the
workman therefore exercises his judgment in continuing the process
only so long as is sufficient to secure the hairs in the felt firm
enough to bear the action of the hat-brush in after-days.
At length the cap is to assume somewhat the shape of a hat, before it
finally leaves the "battery." The workman first turns up the edge of
the cap to the depth of about an inch and a half; and then draws the
peak of the cap back through the centre or axis so far as not to take
out the first fold, but to produce an inner fold of the same depth.
The point being turned back again, produces a third fold, and thus the
workman proceeds, till the whole hat has acquired the appearance of a
flattish circular piece, consisting of a number of concentric folds or
rings, with the peak in the centre. This is laid on the "plank," where
the workman, keeping the substance hot and wet, pulls, presses and
rubs the centre until he has formed a smooth flat portion equal to the
intended crown of the hat. He then takes a cylindrical block, on the
flat end of which he applies the flattened central portion of the
felt, and by holding a string down the curved sides of the block, he
causes the surrounding portion of the felt to assume the figure of the
block. The part which is to form the brim now appears a puckered
appendage round the edge of the hat; but this puckered edge is soon
brought to a tolerably flat shape by pulling and pressing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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