Baltimore Hats, Past and PresentBrigham, William Tufts
History
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
Brigham, William Tufts
Hat trade -- Maryland -- Baltimore -- History; Hats
The workman then raises and opens the nap of the hat by means of a
peculiar sort of comb, and then shears the hairs to a regular length.
Connoisseurs in these matters are learned as to the respective merits
of "short naps" and "long naps," and by the shearer's dexterity these
are regulated. The visitor recognizes nothing difficult in this
operation, yet years of practice are necessary for the attainment of
skill therein, since the workman determines the length of the nap by
the peculiar position in which the long, light shears are held. A nap
or pile as fine as that of velvet can be produced by this operation.
However carefully the process of "blowing" may be performed in order
to separate the coarse fibers of the fur from the more delicate, there
are always a few of the former left mingled with the latter, and these
are worked up during the subsequent processes. Women are employed,
therefore, after the hats have left the "finishers," in picking out
with small tweezers such defective fibers as may present themselves on
the surface of the hats.
Lastly, the hat is placed in the hands of a workman whose employment
requires an accurate eye and a fertile taste in matters of shape and
form: this is the "shaper." He has to study the style and fashion of
the day, as well as the wishes of individual purchasers, by giving to
the brim of the hat such curvatures in various directions as may be
needed. Simple as this may appear, the workman who possesses the
requisite skill to give the acceptable curl to the brim which is to
create the finishing touch for the hat is a desirable hand, and can
command a high rate of wages.
Thus, in our imaginary tour through an old-fashioned hat factory, we
have seen the many skillful manipulations then required to make a hat,
which, when compared with modern processes, awaken in our minds a
sense of wonder at the change.
JOHN PETTICORD.
No. 10.
The subject of this article, who died in Baltimore, October 11th,
1887, in the 92d year of his age, was probably the oldest hatter in
the United States. His identity with Baltimore hatting all the days of
his life made him prominent in connection with that industry. Born but
a few years after the thirteen states had by compact formed a
republic, Washington being President of the United States, Mr.
Petticord lived to see in office every President down to that of
President Cleveland.
When he was a young man of business, savages roamed and tented where
beautiful and populous cities with all the advantages of refinement
and art now exist.
During his lifetime the population of his own city changed from 25,000
to 400,000, and the United States extended its area of territory from
the limits of the thirteen original states, which was 367,000 square
miles, to upwards of 3,000,000, increasing its population from
5,000,000 to 60,000,000.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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