In itself the vale of Grasmere, a happy mixture of beauty and
domesticity, with its pretty little lake and surrounding mountains
dotted here and there with farmsteads, cottages and villas, has strong
claims upon the tourist. In addition to its innate beauty, it possesses
the distinction of being the home of Lakeland’s richest literary
associations. Not a nook or corner in it but breathes the memory of the
Lake Poets, for it was here that the greatest of them lived, worshipped
and died. William Wordsworth chose this spot for his home. First at the
cottage at Town End, then at Allan Bank and ultimately at Rydal Mount,
but a very short distance away, he “communed with solitude” and gave to
the world the beautiful poems which have done so much to immortalize
both Lakeland and himself.
To the tourist who passes through on the main road in the day’s
excursion, Grasmere and Rydal are beautiful--perhaps delectable is a
better word--but to see them properly and rightly to appreciate them, it
is necessary to stroll along the fellsides by which they are overlooked.
At the northern end of Rydal a wooden bridge crosses the stream--Rothay
Beck, which joins Grasmere and Rydal--and gives access to a path known
as Loughrigg Terrace. This was one of Wordsworth’s favourite walks, and
as we follow along the breast of Loughrigg Fell and gaze down upon
Grasmere, with its rich cordon of mountains and woods, we can easily
realize the influences which chained a man of his temperament to this
vale. Away at the far end of the lake is the little village with its
square-towered church, in whose God’s Acre he is laid to rest. Beyond
and above it is the gap in the mountains called Dunmail Raise, the
entrance to Grasmere from the north. To the right of it rise the bare
shoulders of Helvellyn and Seat Sandal; to the left Helm Crag--with its
shattered rock summit--and further round the wildly secluded valley of
Easedale, bounded by the wooded slopes of Silverhow. Truly a scene of
singular charm!
Grasmere Church is the chief object of attraction in the valley. A
quaint old edifice, its once time-weathered beauty has now been greatly
marred by a coating of cement, rendered necessary by the ravages of time
and a congregation which prefers to worship in a dry building. The
inside of the church is quite old-time, however, and Wordsworth’s lines
are still true in every detail,
“Not raised in nice proportions was the pile,
But large and massy for duration built,
With pillars crowded and the roof upheld
By naked rafters intricately crossed.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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