The rest of the description is in the fifth book of “The Excursion.” On
the north side of the nave is a tablet to Wordsworth which contains a
portrait by Woolner with an appreciative inscription underneath. Out
from the gloomy church we pass into the sunshine and, whether we have
read his poetry or not, visit the sheltered corner under the yew-trees
where a simple slate slab bears the plain inscription, and nothing more,
“William Wordsworth, 1850,” “Mary Wordsworth, 1858,”--a tombstone in
keeping with his simplicity of character and freedom from all that
pertained to artificiality. The yew-trees were brought
[Illustration: Grasmere Church
On the banks of the River Rothay.]
across the lake from Loughrigg Tarn and planted here under Wordsworth’s
own directions. Hartley Coleridge, the genial-hearted and brilliant son
of the author of “The Ancient Mariner,” is buried a few yards away under
the more elaborate headstone with a circular top.
The picturesque hamlet itself contains little of interest beyond perhaps
the fact that the palatial but comfortable Rothay Hotel was originally
built by the late Lord Cadogan, and was his home for many years. After
the church, no doubt Dove Cottage claims attention. It was here that
Wordsworth lived from 1799 to 1808, and to it he brought his bride, Mary
Hutchinson, in 1802. De Quincey also occupied it for many years after
Wordsworth left it; indeed it may safely be said that no other cottage
has been visited by so many brilliant literary and artistic people of
bygone times. The names of Sir Walter Scott, the Coleridges, Southey,
Charles Lamb, Humphrey Davy, Charles Lloyd, Ruskin, Christopher North,
Matthew Arnold and many others rise unbidden to the mind as one stands
at the back door and gazes upwards to the summer house above the little
rock-garden which Wordsworth designed, aided by his gentle sister
Dorothy. This little natural rock-garden has been immortalized in the
following farewell lines, written when the poet was leaving it for an
absence of two months--his honeymoon:--
“Farewell, thou little nook of mountain ground,
Thou rocky corner in the lowest stair
Of that magnificent temple which doth bound
One side of our whole vale with grandeur rare.
Sweet garden-orchard, eminently fair,
The loveliest spot that man hath ever found,
Farewell! we leave thee to Heaven’s peaceful care,
Thee and the cottage which thou dost surround.”
Dove Cottage has now been purchased by a number of Wordsworth’s admirers
and is preserved as a permanent memorial. The quaint rooms contain many
priceless relics of the Lakes Poets; much of the furniture is as
Wordsworth and his sister used it and, to a person with even the most
superficial knowledge of their writings, a visit must prove of absorbing
interest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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