Dove Cottage is situated just off the main road, a few yards from the
Prince of Wales Hotel, the name of which reminds one that Royalty has
visited Grasmere. As quite a boy, our late King Edward VII. stayed at
this magnificent and beautifully-situated hotel, and during his stay was
rowed across to the Island. He wandered away from his attendants and
happened upon some sheep grazing. Boylike, he collared one of them and
treated himself to a ride, whereupon the old woman tending the sheep
appeared round a corner, quickly collared His Royal Highness and gave
him what she considered he richly deserved. Just then the attendants
hove in sight and rescued the prince, explaining to the old woman the
enormity of such an offence as thrashing the future King of England.
With true rustic independence, she attached little importance to the
exalted rank of her annoyer, and exclaimed, “King or nea King, he’s a
badly browt up brat an’ if ah hed his mudder here ah’d tell her t’
seam!” Such is the incident as I had it the other day from one who knew
well the old woman herself.
If we keep along past Dove Cottage and climb the hill between it and
Rydal Water, we soon come to a gate in the wall on our right. This is
Wordsworth’s “Wishing Gate” and from it Grasmere and Silverhow look
their best. We must not linger here, however, but keep along the road
until Rydal Water lies at our feet, with Nab Scar sweeping down to it on
the left. This is the smallest of the lakes and at the same time one of
the prettiest. “We admire great things, but love small ones”: this is
one of the latter. Whether seen through the trees from the main road
near Wordsworth’s Rock, or from its margin, the reedy foreshore and
pretty islands, with gentle background of hills, give Rydal a place
apart in Lakeland’s scheme of beauty. On the road
[Illustration: Rydal Water
And Nab Scar, with Nab Cottage, Coleridge’s home, across the lake.]
side near the Grasmere end of the lake is Nab Cottage, for many years
the home of Hartley Coleridge--“Lile Hartley” of genial memory, loved by
the dales-folk, a rare hand at a tale, and a “poet every inch o’ im,” as
one of his local contemporaries voiced it to me the other day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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