The Druid’s Circle, on the hill about two miles above Keswick, is well
worth a visit. However mistaken these ancients may have been in their
ideas of worship, there can be no gainsaying the fact that they knew
what they were about when they chose the site of their Temple. How much
better and more inspiring this rude circle of stones high up on the
mountain, surrounded by the everlasting hills and purified by all the
winds of Heaven, than the often stuffy edifices of latter-day
worshippers! However, to those whose tastes lie in the direction of more
modern sanctuaries, Crosthwaite Church cannot but appeal. It is somewhat
singular that its strongest charms should be those of antiquity and
situation. Its square weather-beaten tower, sheltered by the mighty
Skiddaw, is in wonderful harmony with its surroundings. As regards its
antiquity, there is evidence that a church occupied the present site
before the Conquest, but it has been restored more than once since then.
It was given by Richard Coeur-de-Lion to the care of Fountains Abbey, in
1198--quite a respectable time ago. The recumbent marble memorial of the
poet Southey, momentoes of the Derwentwater family, and the old
fourteenth-century font are amongst the chief objects of interest inside
the church, while in the church-yard is a horizontal slate tomb marking
the poet’s last resting-place.
Bassenthwaite Lake lies to the north-west of Derwentwater and is only
separated from it by low-lying alluvial ground which, after heavy rain,
is sometimes flooded to such an extent that the two lakes are joined.
The drive around Bassenthwaite occupies half a day and is well worth
taking, if only to obtain a proper idea of Skiddaw. Seen from the west
side of the lake the mountain is most shapely and amazingly
[Illustration: Derwentwater, looking North
On the right is Skiddaw (3054 feet), with Keswick at its foot, whilst in
the distance is seen Bassenthwaite Lake.]
rich in colour, but perhaps is more imposing when “shrouding his double
front among Atlantic clouds”--a not unusual occurrence. The ride along
the margin of the lake through Wythop Woods, over Ouse Bridge and back
across the breast of Skiddaw, is one of singular beauty. The prospect
from Applethwaite Terrace on the return journey was one of which Southey
ever spoke with delight; it was his favourite view and indeed when seen
at sunset, with Grisedale Pike outlined against a golden sky, and the
intervening level spaces suffused with a rich afterglow, it is one that
will survive in the memory after others are forgotten.
CHAPTER V.
The Borrowdale Valley, Buttermere and Crummock Lakes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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