The Buttermere Round (as the famous drive through Borrowdale, over
Honister Pass to Buttermere, and back by the Vale of Newlands, is
called) will always be an out-standing feature of a Lakeland holiday.
The rapid changes in the character of the scenery are so dramatic, the
various types of beauty seen are all so distinctive and so perfect in
their own way, and the drive itself is so full of incident, not to say
excitement, that this could not well be otherwise.
Our char-a-banc leaves Keswick at ten o’clock, upon any morning
throughout the summer, and follows the road past Castle Head and along
the eastern margin of Derwentwater. Ravishing glimpses of the lake and
opposing mountains are caught through the foliage of Great Wood, as we
drive along under an avenue of oak and fir trees. High up on our left is
the forbidding escarpment of Walla Crag, reminiscent of Lady
Derwentwater’s wild escapade; this rises sheer over us until we emerge
from the forest and see the face of Falcon Crag towering perpendicularly
in front. It is one of the many features of our drive that we get a
glimpse for a few seconds and then we lose it, to be introduced almost
immediately to a scene of an entirely different character. The lake
again arrests our attention and displays all its beauties for a full
mile until the roar of Lodore Falls is heard in the narrow gorge in
front.
Perhaps the glowing description by Southey and the glimpses of white we
catch through the trees will leave us with a better impression of the
falls than if we alighted and came to close quarters. Truth to tell,
they will be found disappointing in normally dry weather. The American
gentleman who searched for an hour up and down the gorge, and at last
sat down in despair, merits our sympathy. For it was unkind of a local
worthy to reply, in answer to a query as to the whereabouts of the
waterfall, “Why, man, ye’re sittin’ on it”!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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