A mile further along we enter the “Jaws of Borrowdale,” not such a
fearsome proceeding as it sounds. The “Jaws” are formed by the
mountains, Maiden Moor and Brund Fell--the retaining walls of the
rapidly narrowing valley. Rising from its side is the “Tooth of
Borrowdale,” Castle Crag, a rocky pyramid commanding the approaches of
the valley in all directions. For this reason it was occupied by the
Romans as a military station. It forms a fitting background to the
little village of Grange, with its picturesque, double-span bridge (over
the river Derwent) which we soon pass on our right. At the far side of
the bridge is unmistakable evidence of the long past Glacial Period. A
large rounded slab of rock is here exposed and on its surface are to be
plainly seen the scratches and long indentations made by the glacier as
it slowly ground its huge mass westward towards the sea. It must have
been about this period--or, at all events, very long ago, for the
incident lacks confirmation--that the folk of Borrowdale built their
famous wall. It is on record that the natives thought that if they could
keep the cuckoo always with them, they would have eternal summer. So,
early one spring they began to build a wall across the valley, just
beyond Grange, but in the autumn the unappreciative migrant flew over
the top of it and the good people of Borrowdale gave up their project in
disgust.
After climbing a gentle gradient and rounding the corner past a slate
quarry, we come upon the most lovely bit of valley scenery in England.
Such at least is my humble opinion. The defile is here so narrow that
there is only space for the road and the river running alongside it.
Silver birches overhang our heads. Larch, oak and fir clothe the hills
low down, while, above the belt of foliage, heather and bracken, the
stony fellside is dominated by gaunt, grey crags, around which the
ravens circle. At our feet flows the Derwent; its bed is of green slate
peculiar to the neighbourhood. This has the effect of imparting to the
water a brilliant emerald tinge, the splash of vivid colouring that is
the key-note of the whole beautiful combination. The huge isolated rock,
up on the small plateau ahead, is the famous Bowder Stone, claimed to be
the largest detached boulder in England. More remarkable than its size,
however, is the small space upon which it rests. So narrow is this that
directly under the greatest bulk of the stone two persons, one on each
side, may shake hands, and we are told that whatever they wish for at
the time they are sure to get. Perhaps, this is why one so often
observes a man at one side and a lady of similar age at the other!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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