_The stem of the cutting is inserted one third or more of its length in clean sand or gravel, and the earth is pressed firmly about it._ A newspaper may be laid over the bed to exclude the light—if the sun strikes it—and to prevent too rapid evaporation. The soil should be moist clear through, not on top only. [Illustration: FIG. 161.—VERBENA CUTTING READY FOR TRANSPLANTING.] _Loose sandy or gravelly soil is used._ Sand used by masons is good material in which to start most cuttings; or fine gravel—sifted of most of its earthy matter—may be used. Soils are avoided which contain much decaying organic matter, for these soils are breeding places of fungi, which attack the soft cutting and cause it to “damp off,” or to die at or near the surface of the ground. If the cuttings are to be grown in a window, put three or four inches of the earth in a shallow box or a pan. A soap box cut in two lengthwise, so that it makes a box four or five inches deep—as a gardener’s flat—is excellent (Fig. 160). Cuttings of common plants, as geranium, coleus, fuchsia, carnation, are kept at a living-room temperature. As long as the cuttings look bright and green, they are in good condition. It may be a month before roots form. When roots have formed, the plants begin to make new leaves at the tip. Then they may be transplanted into other boxes or into pots. The verbena in Fig. 161 is just ready for transplanting. [Illustration: FIG. 162.—OLD GERANIUM PLANT CUT BACK TO MAKE IT THROW OUT SHOOTS FROM WHICH CUTTINGS CAN BE MADE.] It is not always easy to find growing shoots from which to make the cuttings. The best practice, in that case, is _to cut back an old plant, then keep it warm and well watered, and thereby force it to throw out new shoots_. The old geranium plant from the window garden, or the one taken up from the lawn bed, may be treated this way (see Fig. 162). The best plants of geranium and coleus and most window plants are those which are not more than one year old. _The geranium and fuchsia cuttings which are made in January, February, or March will give compact blooming plants for the next winter; and thereafter new ones should take their places_ (Fig. 163). [Illustration: FIG. 163.—EARLY WINTER GERANIUM, from a spring cutting.] =The Hardwood Cutting.=—_Best results with cuttings of mature wood are secured when the cuttings are made in the fall and then buried until spring in sand in the cellar._ These cuttings are usually six to ten inches long. They are not idle while they rest. The lower end calluses or heals, and the roots form more readily when the cutting is planted in the spring. But if the proper season has passed, take cuttings at any time in winter, plant them in a deep box in the window, and watch. They will need no shading or special care. Grape, currant, gooseberry, willow, and poplar readily take root from the hardwood. Fig. 164 shows a currant cutting. It has only one bud above the ground.