The most conspicuous object in Bruges, both from a distance and within
the walls, is the lofty tower of an ancient building, called “Les
Halles”--an edifice of vast extent, whose original destination seems
to be but imperfectly known, but which, in all probability, served as
a depot for merchandize during the palmy days of the Hanseatic League,
whilst in its ponderous tower were deposited the ancient records of the
city. The lower buildings are now partly unoccupied, and partly used
for the purposes of a covered market, and on the tower are stationed
the warders, who, night and day, look out for fires in the streets of
the city or the suburbs. It contains, likewise, one of those sweet
carillons of bells, which, in their excellence, seem to be peculiar to
the Netherlands, as in no other country that I am aware of do their
chimes approach to any thing like harmonious music. In the tower of Les
Halles and some others in Belgium, they are set in motion by a huge
cylinder with moveable keys, similar to those in a barrel organ or a
Geneva box. The tunes are arranged and altered every year at Easter,
and the carillon, besides announcing every hour, is played almost
daily for the amusement of the citizens. But besides the mechanical
arrangement, there are keys which can be played on at pleasure, and
during our visit, the “chief musician” commenced this feat, hammering
with his fists, defended first by strong leather, and tramping with
his heels, till every muscle in his whole body seemed called into
action--an exercise very like that of Falstaff’s recruit Bullfrog,
when he “caught a cold _in ringing in the king’s affairs_ upon the
coronation day.”
The view from this tower is really surprising, owing to the vast level
plain in which it stands, and which stretches to the horizon without an
undulation upon every side; the view is only limited by the ability of
the eye to embrace it, and the sight is bewildered with the infinity
of villages, towers, forests, canals and rivers which it presents,
taking in at one vast glance, the German Ocean, the distant lines of
Holland, the towers of Ghent, and to the south, the remote frontier of
France. Its views, like almost every thing else in the Netherlands,
are peculiar to itself, and in the repose and richness of cultivated
beauty, have not a parallel in any country of Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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