The cathedral of St. Bavon, besides being the oldest, is by far
the most magnificent in Ghent, and seems, in fact, to have a high
reputation for its splendour, as we repeatedly heard of it at
subsequent points of our tour. The whole of the basement is occupied
by one vast crypt or _souterrain_, the low vaulted arches of which,
rest on the shafts of the huge columns which support the roof of the
grand edifice above. Like it, it is divided into a series of little
gloomy chapels, containing the tombs of some of the ancient families
of distinction, and occasionally decorated by pictures and statues of
extreme antiquity. The brothers John and Hubert Van Eyck, the painters
and their sister, who was likewise an artist, sleep in one grave under
the floor of this melancholy vault. Over the grand entrance to the
cathedral is a curious old statue of St. Bavon holding a hawk upon his
wrist, a curious attitude, though characteristic of the manners of the
times. The coup-d’œil of the interior is surprisingly grand, the choir
being separated from the nave and aisles by lofty columns of variegated
marbles, and the entrance to each of the four and twenty chapels which
surround the church, covered by a screen of neat design, sometimes in
carved oak or stone, but more frequently in gilded brass or iron of
exquisite workmanship.
The numerous paintings with which the church is covered are few of them
of extraordinary merit, they are chiefly by the artists, contemporary
and subsequent to Rubens, Crayer, Otto Vennius, Honthorst, Serghers
and others. The most remarkable painting is that of the Saint Agneau
or adoration of the lamb by the Van Eycks. It is in marvellous
preservation, and is one of the most valuable specimens remaining of
the school to which it belongs. It contains a profusion of figures,
finished with the richness and delicacy of a miniature, and represents
the lamb upon an altar, in the midst of a rich landscape, surrounded
by angels, and worshipped by multitudes of popes, emperors, monks and
nuns. It is surmounted and surrounded by a number of compartments,
containing pictures of the Saviour and the Virgin, and representing
divers incidents in the life of the former; in addition to these,
there were originally six doors or _volets_ to the picture, which, by
some ignorance of the persons in charge of them, were actually sold in
1816 for a mere trifle to an Englishman called Solly, from whom they
were bought by the King of Prussia, for 400,000 francs, and they now
decorate the museum at Berlin. There is also a picture by Rubens, of
St. Bavon retiring to a monastery, after having distributed his goods
to the poor, which was carried by Napoleon to Paris, and restored in
1819.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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