In the great square, which is close by the banks of the river, stands
the Town Hall, a flat looking building, and beside it, a news room
and saloon for balls, but all seemed to be deserted, and we scarcely
saw twenty persons within the walls. A sight of it is sufficient
to satisfy one of the practicability of the expedient resorted to
by Vendome, in 1706, when defending the town against the Duke of
Marlborough, (or rather his brother, who conducted the siege) of laying
the country under water up to the walls of the town. By a singular
coincidence, however, the expedient proved unsuccessful, as the waters
of the Scheldt fell so low as to reduce the floods on the lowlands to
a fordable depth. The Duke, in his letter to Lord Godolphin, says:
“Dendermonde could never have been taken but by the hand of God,
which gave us seven weeks without rain. The rain began the very next
day after we had possession, and continued till the evening. I believe
the King of France will be a good deal surprised, when he shall have
heard that the garrison has been obliged to surrender themselves
prisoners of war, for upon being told that the preparations were making
for the siege, he said: '_they must have an army of ducks to take
Dendermonde_.’”
Teniers lived in Dendermonde, of which his lady was a native, and the
house he occupied, with a fresco over the mantel-piece of the saloon,
is still shown to visitors. It has some manufactories of cotton and
wool, but the only process we saw was one of those mills for crushing
oil, which as they find both the raw material and the consumer upon the
spot, seems to be amongst the most prosperous establishments in Belgium.
The journey by the railroad from Dendermonde to Mechlin, a distance
of sixteen miles, is performed in about half-an-hour. Mechlin quite
comes up to one’s expectations of it. I had always heard of it by
its soubriquet of _Malines la Propre_, and associated it with the
stateliness and quaintness of “Mechlin lace:” and certainly it is
just such an old place as one would imagine likely to produce such
collars and lappets as one sees in Vandyke’s portraits--quiet,
grotesque-looking old houses of great size, and with rich and sober
ornaments and decorations to the points and gables, tall gothic
churches, and streets accurately clean, with groups of cheerful,
contented-looking loungers at the doors, and here and there a demure
ecclesiastic, stepping silently along in his black gown and silk sash,
with his little three-cornered hat and white bands, edged with black
ribband, and broad silver buckles to his shoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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