Mechlin is full of priests, as it abounds in churches, and is the
residence of an Archbishop. The present prelate is M. Sterckx, son
to a farmer at the village of Ophem, but one of the most restless,
energetic and ambitious ecclesiastics that ever aspired to political
power. He obtained his present See subsequently to the Revolution, but
he is now the leading spirit of the _parti-prêtre_ in the legislature,
and his will and wishes, transmitted through becoming channels, serve
to “move, direct, and animate the whole” policy of the state, in the
present ascendant position of the church in both houses. The Abbé de
Pradt was Bishop of Mechlin under Napoleon.
Malines is a very antique place; its name has been derived from _Maris
linea_, and the influence of the tide upon the current of the Scheldt,
and its tributary, the Dyle, on the side of which it is built, is felt
for a mile beyond the town. It was once fortified, and besieged by
Marlborough and others, but the French levelled the ramparts and filled
up the fosse in 1804. Its lace manufacture has been sadly interfered
with by other competitors, but above all, by the invention of tulle
and bobbin-net, but the genuine specimens of its ancient production
are still in the most distinguished repute. The other occupations of
the population, which is somewhere about 20,000, are the manufactures
of cashmere shawls, and chairs of gilded leather, which were, at one
time, an article of export, so choice was the taste of their designs;
they still engage upwards of four hundred workmen, and are in as great
repute as ever with the Dutch. The district around is as usual, highly
agricultural, and the canals which traverse it and pass by the city,
have rendered Mechlin a prosperous seat of the flax trade, and quite an
entrepôt for corn and oil.
The only objects of interest, and depositaries of art in Mechlin, are,
as usual, the churches. The Cathedral, whose solid moresco tower is
seen from a vast distance, is of great antiquity, though not remarkable
for its beauty. The tower is of amazing height, though unfinished; we
ascended it by a stone staircase, in which I lost count after reckoning
an ascent of five hundred steps; I should, therefore, conclude it to
be at least three hundred feet high. It contains one of those “corals
for grown gentlemen,” as some Fadladeen in music has denominated the
carillons of the Netherlands--a chime of innumerable stops, set in
motion by machinery. But, I confess, that the well arranged harmony of
the carillons is to me infinitely more pleasing than the monotonous
clangour that on fête days in London, disturb the city from its
propriety, or the sweet but “drowsy tinklings” from every church and
convent, that load the air with sound on an evening in Italy. Their gay
and measured melody sometimes strikes so unexpectedly upon the ear,
descending through such a distance from the sky, that it, also, seems
like the song of Ariel attracting Ferdinand:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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