Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
Monsieur suggested that I see Mlle. Mullie, a leading dealer of
Courtrai, who still handles a large output of Valenciennes; tho
Courtrai, which was once a brilliant production center, is no longer
of great importance. After the French Revolution, which killed
Valenciennes-making in its original home, it migrated to other parts of
Northern France, and to the two Flanders; to Ypres, where it enjoyed an
especially happy development, to Bruges, Ghent, Dixmude, Furnes, Menin,
Nieuport, Poperinghe and elsewhere. For a long time Ghent led all
these, with over 5,000 workers listed in 1756. But starvation wages and
successful imitations have told against this, as against other laces.
Nevertheless, in the census of 1896, Bruges was still credited with
2,000 Valenciennes workers, and Poperinghe with 500, while there were
scattered groups of considerable importance in a great number of the
villages of Western, and some of Eastern Flanders.
Courtrai and the nearby villages where the lace is actually made,
still stand, tho many buildings have been destroyed, but while her
people were not forced to become refugees, lace-making was seriously
interrupted; workers were evicted from their homes and their schools.
And they suffered further because there was scarcely any thread left,
the dealers often asking as much as 20 cents for ¾ of a yard of lace
thread, about the previous value of the same length in finished lace.
Under these conditions it was especially easy to see the importance
of the efforts of the Brussels Lace Committee, which furnished thread
at the normal price, and gave more for the lace than was ever offered
before the war.
[Illustration: BOBBIN LACES
First column: Malines, Malines, Point de Paris, Point de Paris,
Valenciennes (square mesh)
Middle column: Point de Paris
Third column: First three, Valenciennes; fourth, Point de Paris]
[Illustration: CUSHION COVER REPRESENTING BELGIUM’S GRATITUDE TO
AMERICA FOR BREAD
Point de Paris lace combined with linen. The lower right-hand
centerpiece shows the rose design, emblem of Queen Elizabeth]
Unfortunately the German facteurs (agents for lace dealers) worked
cleverly here, too, as in other districts. They had always plenty of
requisitioned thread to offer, and succeeded in buying considerable
lace, for which they offered high and varying prices.
The younger women of the Courtrai region have been rapidly giving up
Valenciennes to make Cluny, which pays better. A Valenciennes beginner,
for example, must work a year as an apprentice, during which time she
is able to earn scarcely more than five cents a day. The wages of the
good workers have advanced, but unless they can be increased even more,
there are few who will continue to make this difficult lace.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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