Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villagesKellogg, Charlotte
History
Bobbins of Belgium: A book of Belgian lace, lace-workers, lace-schools and lace-villages
Kellogg, Charlotte
Brussels lace committee; Lace and lace making -- Belgium
After 60 years’ experience in lace, and latterly she has employed 1,000
women, Mlle. Mullie says that one is fortunate, among 5,000 workers,
to find five who can execute a sample from a drawing not already
interpreted or pricked for the worker. Before the war there were two
good piqueuses in Ypres to whom Courtrai sent her difficult patterns,
but only one of these still lives.
In peace-time the greater part of this Courtrai lace goes to Paris
(some is sent to New York), which is all one needs to say in tribute
to its pattern and its quality. Paris knows lace better than any other
city in the world; she accepts only the best. We were talking of the 60
per cent. duty the United States Government levies on imported laces,
and the harm it works to the Belgian industry. “That is our greatest
discouragement, but there are other Government stupidities,” Mlle.
Mullie smiled. “France, for instance, charges 10½ francs on a kilo
of Valenciennes, and the same amount on an equal weight of Cluny; the
Valenciennes may be worth several thousand, and the Cluny three or four
francs!”
The true old Valenciennes mesh, called “Rond,” is still made at
Courtrai, as well as at Bruges; the modern Valenciennes commonly has
a square mesh, which is preferred by many connoisseurs, since it is
more transparent and sets the flowers off more strikingly. “Whether or
not you prefer it to the square, you must see the traditional round
Valenciennes mesh,” Mlle. Mullie said, and we started off in the rain
for a group of tiny brick houses, the Gottshuisen (God’s houses) which
the city furnishes free to certain old people.
Before we reached the first, I saw two white heads near a window,
bending over cushions; and once inside, on those cushions, lengths of
snowy Valenciennes of the old round mesh, of an admirable regularity
and loveliness. These two women were both over 70 years old, and they
sat before their bobbins, twisting and braiding the eight threads of
the mesh as they had twisted and braided them for over a half century,
and still cheerfully hoping that they might some day win more than 15
or 20 cents a day for their work. “Now we must have more,” they said
gently, “because thread and oil are so much more expensive than they
were before the war.”
In the next house, the old woman whose sister was ill could afford no
light at all; when dusk fell she had to leave her bobbin mounds and her
mesh and flowers and go to bed—what else could she do without coal or
oil?
It was the last day of 1918, and I decided that Mrs. Bayard Henry of
Philadelphia, who had sent me a little money to use as I chose, would
be happy to give to these sweet, faithful women and their thirteen
neighbors, candles and oil as hope symbols for the New Year. I left her
gift with Mlle. Mullie.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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