At the corner of Chancery Lane, and above the shop of Partridge and
Cooper, was a new restaurant called “The London.” The proprietor was a
sanguine man, but made the mistake of being a little before his time.
The Fleet Street men of his period preferred to lunch and dine
uncomfortably. The owner of “The London” did us too well, and attended
too scrupulously to the nicer amenities of the table. We tried the
establishment, and then returned to our husks. Outside the new
restaurant stood a burly commissionaire, with puffy red cheeks and purple
nose. When the restaurant closed its doors for ever, the commissionaire
remained, eager to perform the errands of all and sundry. He was rather
a picturesque old fellow, and was for a long time one of the features of
that end of the street. He wore a red shako, which added greatly to the
picturesqueness of his appearance, and I should not be surprised to learn
that in private life he drank heavily.
The favourite luncheon haunts of the journalist in the consulate of
Plancus were the Cheshire Cheese in Wine Office Court, and the
refreshment bar of Spiers and Pond at Ludgate Hill Railway-Station. At
the latter place, between the hours of one and three, you were pretty
certain to meet a number of confrères. Christopher Pond, one of the
partners who ran the bar and restaurant at Ludgate Hill, was to be seen
here on most days of the week. He was a big, broad-shouldered, hearty
man, who made no secret of his desire to conciliate the members of the
London Press. Among those who were daily worshippers at this shrine were
Tom Hood, the Editor of _Fun_; Henry Sampson, then one of Hood’s staff,
but afterwards to become famous as the founder of the _Referee_: “Bill”
Brunton, the artist; Charles Williams, the war-correspondent; and John
Augustus O’Shea, of the _Standard_. John Corlett used to drop in
occasionally, and John Ryder, who lived down the line, invariably called
in on his way to the theatre. Ryder was a fine raconteur, and he had the
largest and most varied assortment of amusing reminiscences of any man I
have ever met. Mr. Henry Labouchere used to tell a story of “Jack” Ryder
which was eminently characteristic of the actor. When Labouchere
produced “The Last Days of Pompeii” at the old Queen’s Theatre in Long
Acre, Ryder was his stage-manager, and, in his desire to make the
production as naturalistic as possible, he asked Labouchere to obtain
some real lions. Labouchere demurred; Ryder pleaded.
“But,” objected Labouchere at last, “suppose the lions broke loose?”
“Well,” answered John cheerily, “they’d have to eat the band first.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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