Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Scotland -- Description and travel
A peculiar feature of the city is its “Bridges,” by which certain
streets span others at different levels, physically and socially. From
the unique Dean Bridge, in the heart of the West End, one overlooks what
might be taken for a Highland glen but for the lines of mansions that
edge it above. When I came to Edinburgh as a homesick little schoolboy,
appalled by the “boundless continuity” of street, I devoted my first
Saturday freedom to an attempt at discovering the open country. This was
happily before the days of schoolboys being driven and drilled to play.
Striking the Water of Leith at Stockbridge, I turned along the path
leading into this glen that might well satisfy desires for a green
solitude. But on reaching the village of Dean, embedded below the
bridge, I climbed up to find myself beside the dome of St. George’s
Church, lost deeper than ever in that bewildering city. Still, a little
trimmed and tamed, an oasis of wooded bank shuts in the rushing stream,
now purified and stocked with trout, where we were content to catch
loaches and sticklebacks.
What a loss to this city was the classically-minded Gothicism or
carelessness through which came to be rooted up so many noble trees that
once dotted the parks of Drumsheugh and Bellevue! But Edinburgh has been
well endowed afresh with open spaces and shrubberies, those that
separate the blocks of the New Town mainly private joint-stock
paradises, yet serving for public amenity. The Old Town is enclosed
between the noble stretch of the Princes Street Gardens on the north,
and on the south the open Meadows, with its “Philosopher’s Walk” of
Dugald Stewart’s and Playfair’s days, rising into the Bruntsfield Links.
Then the city is almost ringed about by parks, more than one of them
including grand features of natural scenery. Philadelphia is the only
city I know which has such wild scenes at her very doors, in her case
collected together in the Fairmount Park, where miles of hill and river
landscape have been left almost untouched among the streets and suburbs,
yet boasting no points so noble as the head of Arthur’s Seat, with its
girdle of crags, screes, and lakes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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