Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff — John Shaqi
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope MoncrieffMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
Bonnie Scotland: Painted by Sutton Palmer; Described by A.R. Hope Moncrieff
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Scotland -- Description and travel
This miniature Ben, imposing as it looks, is under 1000 feet high, and
easily climbed. Those almost past their climbing days may seek Blackford
Hill on the south side, where Scott tells us that he bird’s-nested as a
truant boy, and speaks of it as at a later day brought under
cultivation; but it has relapsed again to its native wildness, laid out
as a rough park and as site for the squat domes of the new Observatory.
From this eminence one gets Marmion’s view of the city, now grown up to
its foot, shut in between Arthur’s Seat and the wooded ridge of
Corstorphine, and bounded to the north across the Firth by the heights
of Fife, above which, in clear weather, stand up the blue bastions of
the Highlands. Behind Blackford, one may keep up the wooded hollow of
the Hermitage, by a public path following the stream, and thus gain the
Braid Hills, overlooking the city a little farther back. Keeping along
their edge, at some risk from flying golf balls, one can hold on to the
hotel built between the old and the new south roads. Here, at the
terminus of suburban trams, looking to the Pentlands up the valley of
the Braid Burn, by which runs a field path towards Swanston, the country
home of R. L. Stevenson, one might hardly guess oneself so near a great
city, but for the lordly poorhouse and fever-hospital buildings to the
back of Craiglockhart Hill.
In the very heart of the city are view-points fine enough to content
hasty travellers, from the battlements of the Castle, from the spire of
Scott’s Monument, from the slopes of the Calton Hill, with its array of
ready-made ruins and monuments with which Edinburgh has sought to live
up to her classical pretensions. This rises beyond the east end of
Princes Street, opposite the battlemented gaol, and a little way past
that Charing Cross of Auld Reekie, where its main ways meet between the
Post Office, the Register House and the tower of a new North British
Hotel looking down upon the glass roofs of the sunken Waverley Station.
At the other end of Princes Street, an opening before the Caledonian
Station may be called Edinburgh’s Piccadilly Circus, radiating into its
Mayfair quarter. This end is dominated by the Castle, suggesting to
Algerian travellers a duodecimo edition of that wonderful rock-set city
Constantine. It shows little of the modern fortress, rather a pile of
ugly barracks which a Japanese cruiser could knock to pieces from the
Firth; but one understands how in old days its site made it a Gibraltar
citadel, that often could hold out when the town was overrun by foemen
taking care to keep themselves beyond range of the Castle guns. Taylor,
the Water Poet, who had seen something of war in his youth, judged it
“so strongly grounded, bounded, and founded, that by force of man it can
never be confounded.” The King himself did not gain admittance on his
recent visit without a ceremony of summons by the Lord Lyon King of
Arms; but all and sundry, at reasonable hours, may stroll across its
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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