French Passion for Statues--Roman Temple at Autun--Ecoles Méniennes--The Capitol--The Roman Theatre--Two Ways of Lunching--Promenade des Marbres--The Amphitheatre 31 CHAPTER IV THE ROMAN CITY (CONTINUED) Christian Autun--Relics of Lazarus--Translation of the Relics--Tomb of Lazarus--Exterior of Cathedral St. Lazare--The Porch--The Interior--Romanesque and Gothic--The East End--Imbecile Restorations--The Capital--St. Symphorien by Ingres--Story of St. Symphorien--Fontaine St. Lazare--Hotel Rolin--The Museums--Napoleon at the Hotel St. Louis--No charge for Moonlight 41 CHAPTER V THE MOTHER ABBEY Cluny and Citeaux--Cluny still the Abbey--The Birth of Cluny--Duke William's Anathema--Odon--Legend of the Crumbs--Legend of the Boar--Growth of Cluny--Birth of Hugues--St. Odilon--Hildebrand--Glory of Cluny--The Monk's Vision--The new Abbey--Consecration--Gifts--Description of New Cluny--The Narthex--The Interior--Conventual Buildings--Ambulatorium Angelorum--The Rule of Cluny--Monkish life at Cluny--Pierre Damien--Death of St. Hugues--Luxury and Decadence 59 CHAPTER VI THE MOTHER ABBEY (CONTINUED) Cluny of To-day--Palace of Pope Gélase--The remaining Transept--Chapelle Bourbon--Tour du Moulin--Tour des Fromages--Gate of the Narthex--The Abbey Gate--Notable Visitors to Cluny--Palais abbatial--Musée--Hotel de Ville--Romanesque Houses--Hotel des Monnaies--Eglise St. Marcel--Hotel Dieu--Bouillon Monument--Prud'hon--Women of Burgundy--Hotel de Bourgogne--An amusing Evening--A Dream--Berzé-le-Châtel--Castle of Lourdon--St. Point--A Poet's Garden--Lamartine's Home--Tramaye 86 CHAPTER VII MORE POPE THAN YOU Decadent Cluny--Birth of St. Robert--Abbey of Molême--The Founding of Citeaux--White Robes--Black Scapular--Stephen's Vision--The Coming of St. Bernard--His Appearance--Legend of His Birth--Bernard converts his Family--Bernard a Cistercian--His Austerities--Rise of Citeaux--Daughter Abbeys--Ceremony of Foundation--Character of Bernard--Cistercian Ideals--Self-sacrifice--Simplicity--Bernard's Letter to Pierre le Vénérable--Visitors to Citeaux--Albigensian Crusade--Citeaux's Crime--A Cistercian Site--Citeaux to-day--The Chapter--My Flemish Guide 111 CHAPTER VIII CLUNY'S DAUGHTER