Monkish Paray--"Une Simple Formalité"--Burgundian Manners--Clothes and the Woman--Hotel de Ville--Church of Paray--Splendid Example of Clunisian School--"Diorama-Musée"--Burgundian English--North Door--Porch--Interior--Blasphemy and kindred Matters--A very young Mule--A Snake-charmer 127 CHAPTER IX HER THREE CROWNS Chalon-Sur-Saône--River Pageants--Gontran--Abbey of St. Marcel--The Story of Bertille 136 CHAPTER X ABELARD AND HELOISE Church of St. Marcel--Story of Abélard and Héloise--Olivier de la Marche--Tournament of la Dame des Pleurs--Tournament of 1273--Modern Chalon-Sur-Saône--Eglise St. Vincent 145 CHAPTER XI TOURNUS BY THE SAONE Abbey of St. Philibert--Oldest Clunisian Porch--Interior of St. Philibert--A Change of Author--The Record of Raoul Glaber--Raoul's Visions--Famine in Burgundy--Human Vampires--In a Tournusian Café--"Au Point du Jour"--Greuze--Morning and Evening on the Saône--Mâcon 160 CHAPTER XII THE VALLEY OF THE OUCHE A Page of Dialogue--Castle of Marigny--Legend of Tebsima--Albéric--Labussière--Albéric's Dream--Aid from Citeaux--The new Church--Modern Labussière--A magnificent Mansion--Antigny-le-Chatel--A Vigneron's Wedding--Arnay-le-Duc--Study in Roofs and Colours--A charming Town--The Goats--The Poor Man--The Hotel Chrétien--Around Arnay 173 CHAPTER XIII THE CITY OF THE DUKES Unknown Dijon--The City in 1364--Philip le Hardi--His jewelled Coats--The Madness of the Period--Costume of that Day--Madness of King Charles--Philip's Patronage of Art--Chartreuse de Champmol--Puits de Moise--Portal of the Chapel--Claus Slater and his Nephew--Tombs of Philip le Hardi and Jean sans Peur--The Pleurants--Character of Jean sans Peur--Murder of Duke of Orleans--Whitewashing--Armagnacs and Burgundians Revenge 184 CHAPTER XIV CITY OF THE DUKES (CONTINUED) Salle des Gardes--Dijon Castle--A new Post-Office--Final Struggle between Charles le Téméraire and Louis XI--Characters of both Men--Defeats and Death of Charles--Discovery of the Body--Victorious René--Louis' Joy--New Castles--Entry into Dijon--End of Burgundian Dreams--Modern Dijon--St. Bénigne--St. Michel--Notre Dame Jacquemart--Ducal Palace and Kitchen--Sketching--Palais de Justice--Plombières--Talant--Fontaine-lez-Dijon--Memories of Bernard--Tournament of Tree of Charlemagne 203 CHAPTER XV THE DEVIL'S PIT