Easter Morning--Lux--The Devil's Pit--Dialogue--The Legend--Serve him right! 221 CHAPTER XVI BEAUNE AND THE COTE D'OR "Bits" in Beaune--Notre Dame--Hotel Dieu--An Earthly Paradise--Exterior--Courtyard--Chapel--Devices--Roger Van der Weyden's "Last Judgment"--Nicholas Rolin--Guigonne 230 CHAPTER XVII SAINT MARTIN'S WELL AND THE LEGEND OF SAINT MARGUERITE Bouilland--Abbey of Sainte Marguerite--The Legend--Vineyards of the Côte d'Or--Meursault--Rochepot--Story of Philippe Pot--Crusader's Return--His Marriage at Dijon--Tant L Vaut--A Talk at Auxey-le-Grand--Through Côte d'Or by Train--Cussy-la-Colonne--Bewitched--The Column--A Democratic Journey--St. Martin's Well--Legend of St. Martin's Well 237 CHAPTER XVIII IN RURAL BURGUNDY The Road to Verdun--Burgundian Folk-song, "Eho!"--Its Story--Verdun sur le Doubs--The First of March--Burgundian Folk-Lore--Teillage--Winter Scene--An old-time Burgundian Wedding--The Patois--François Fertiault 258 CHAPTER XIX A LAKE IN THE JURA Swiss Burgundy--Scenes in the Jura--Nantua from the Hills--Real Burgundy--A capable Woman--Church of Nantua 272 CHAPTER XX PRINCESS MARGARET'S CHURCH Bourg-en-Bresse--Signs of the South--Conveyances--Monument Historique--Cezenat--Princess Margaret's Church--Exterior--Interior--Story of Princess Margaret---Loys von Boghen--Death of Margaret--The Meaning of her Church--The Tombs--Paradin's Chronique de Savoie--Francis I. at Bourg 276 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Mont Beuvray Frontispiece A Gaulish Soldier 1 On Mont Beuvray 7 The Wivern 10 The Porte St. André 11 Autun; shewing Cathedral and Mediæval Towers 17 Autun; Pierre de Couhard 19 Autun; Temple of Janus 23 Autun; Porte d'Arroux 25 Burgundian Peasant 30 Head of Augustus 31 Autun; Mediæval Towers 35 A Burgundian Welcome 38 Masks of Comedy and Tragedy 40