When that bridge was erected, the country must have been in safe and
prosperous circumstances; the beauty of the scenery was not found in
contrast to the happiness of the people; there must have been rich
commerce carried on between the far east and the towns of Palestine; and
it is in reference to such a fortunate period that the wandering
minstrels, even now among the Bedaween, sing the songs of the forty
orphan youths who competed in poetic compositions under the influence of
love for an Arab maiden at the bridge of Mejama'a.
The name is derived from the _meeting_ of two branches of the Jordan in
that place after having separated above. Below the bridge the bed of the
river is very rocky, and the course of the water disturbed, but above the
"meeting of the waters" all is beautifully smooth and tranquil; wild
aquatic birds enjoying their existence on its surface, and the banks
fringed with willows and oleanders. How grateful is all this to the
traveller after a scorching ride of several hours.
Then the river, and with it our road, deflected back to the western
hills; again the river wound in serpentine sinuosities about the middle
of the plain, with little islands and shallow sands within its course. I
am not sure that the delight we experienced was not enhanced by the
circumstance of travelling upwards against stream. Whenever tourists
find the country safe enough for the purpose, and have leisure at
command, I certainly recommend to them this district of Jordan, between
Beisan and Tiberias: of course this presupposes that they visit Nazareth
before or afterwards.
Occasionally we came to rings of stones laid on the ground,--these mark
the graves of Arabs of the vicinity; then a cattle enclosure, fenced in
by a bank of earth, and thorns piled on the top. All about this were
subterranean granaries for corn, having apertures like wells, but empty.
Close to this was a ford to the eastern bank. The river has many
interruptions certainly, but yet in two days' ride we had seen a good
deal of smooth water for boating. At half-past one was reached the
village of _Abadiyeh_.
Near the village we saw people cutting twigs of tamarisk and willow. At
the village were large plantations of the kitchen vegetable, _Bamia_,
which is a _hibiscus_, (called _ochra_ in the West Indies,) the plants
four feet high, with bright yellow blossom. Near the regular houses were
suburb huts made of reeds. This is often seen along the Ghor; they are
tenanted by wanderers at certain seasons of the year.
There was a profusion of good wheat straw lying wasting upon the ground;
it is here too plentiful to be cared for.
We saw afterwards a low wall of masonry entirely crossing the Jordan, but
having now a broken aperture in the middle. In former times these
artificial works were common, and served to irrigate the lands on each
side. The river was never used for navigation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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