At two o'clock we reached one well-known rendezvous, the old broken
bridge, popularly called "Mother of Arches." The ford was now low in
water. Here we rested under a neb'k tree; and on getting out the
luncheon, discovered that all our stores of bread, coffee, sugar, and
arrow-root had been soaked by the splashing of streams and fords that we
had this day encountered.
The horseman fell again to his prayers. Several Arabs from the Hauran
with their camels, crossed the Jordan while we were there.
Another hour took us to the baths of Tiberias; the heat very great, and
by our roadside there was a whole mountain with its dry yellow grass and
weeds on fire.
Near the south end of the lake are some palms growing wild. We
dismounted at a quarter to four.
* * * * *
Next day I ascended the hills to Safed, a well-known station. The place
is exceedingly healthy, enjoying the purest mountain air, as is evinced
by the healthy complexion of the numerous Jews residing there; and the
landscape views are both extensive and beautiful.
On the following day I undertook a few hours' excursion to _Kadis_
(Kedesh Naphtali), where Barak, son of Abinoam, and Deborah, collected
the forces of Zebulun and Naphtali, for marching to Mount Tabor against
Sisera. It was also one of the six cities of refuge for cases of
unintentional homicide, (Josh. xx. 7;) it lies to the N.N.E. from Safed.
In an hour we obtained a grand view of Hermon just opposite to us, and
never lost sight of it till our return. Passed between the villages of
_Dilathah_ on the right, and _Taitaba_ on the left; the country is all
strewn with volcanic basalt. In another half-hour we had _Ras el Ahhmar_
on our left. Then _Farah_ and _Salhhah_ at some distance to the left,
and _Alma_ just before us. The volcanic brown stones had on them
occasionally a thin lichen of either orange colour, or a sour pale green,
like verdigris.
About this village were women and children gathering olives from the
trees--first beating the boughs with poles, then picking up the fruit
from the ground.
The small district around here is named "the Khait," and the people boast
of its extraordinary fertility in corn-produce.
Down a steep descent of white limestone, where it is said the torrents
are so strong in winter that no one attempts to pass that way. Rising
again, we found near the summit of the opposite hill a spring of water,
from which some Bedaween women were carrying away water in the common
fashion, in goat-skins upon their backs. They were young, pretty, dirty,
and ragged. Of course their rags were blue, and their lips were coloured
to match.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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