Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya ColonyCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya Colony
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Kenya -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel
The donkeys of Egypt are small, rugged animals. One sees them everywhere
with all sorts of odd figures mounted on them. Here is an Egyptian woman
sitting astride of one, her legs bent up like a spring and her black feet
sticking out in the stirrups. She is dressed in black, in a gown which
makes her look like a balloon. There is a long veil over her face with a
slit at the eyes, where a brass spool separates it from the head-dress
and you see nothing but strips of bare skin an inch wide above and below.
Here is a sheik with a great turban and a long gown; his legs, ending
in big yellow slippers, reach almost to the ground on each side of his
donkey. He has no bridle, but guides the beast with a stick. A donkey-boy
in bare feet, whose sole clothing consists of a blue cotton nightgown and
a brown skullcap, runs behind poking up the donkey with a stick. Now he
gives it a cut, and the donkey jerks its hinder part from one side to the
other as it scallops the road in attempting to get out of the way of the
rod. Here is a drove of donkeys laden with bags for the market. They are
not harnessed, and the bags are balanced upon their backs without ropes
or saddles.
The ordinary donkey of Egypt is very cheap indeed, but the country has
some of the finest asses and mules I have ever seen, and there are royal
white jackasses ridden by wealthy Mohammedans which are worth from
five hundred to a thousand dollars per beast. The best of these come
from Mecca. They are pacers, fourteen hands high, and very swift. The
pedigrees of some of them are nearly as long as those of Arabian horses.
It is said that the Arabs who raise them will never sell a female of this
breed.
But to return to the characters of the bazaar. They are of the oddest,
and one must have an educated eye to know who they are. Take that man in
a green turban, who is looked up to by his fellows. The dragoman tells
us that he has a sure passport to Heaven, and that the green turban is
a sign that he has made the pilgrimage to Mecca and thus earned the
right to the colours of the Prophet. Behind him comes a fine-featured,
yellow-faced man in a blue gown wearing a turban of blue. We ask our
guide who he may be and are told, with a sneer, that he is a Copt. He is
one of the Christians of modern Egypt, descended from the fanatical band
described by Charles Kingsley in his novel “Hypatia.” Like all his class
he is intelligent, and like most of them well dressed. The Copts are
among the shrewdest of the business Egyptians, and with prosperity they
have grown in wealth. They are money lenders and land speculators. Many
of them have offices under the government, and not a few have amassed
fortunes. Some of them are very religious and some can recite the Bible
by heart. They differ from their neighbours in that they believe in
having only one wife.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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