Into the open mouths of such cañons have retreated the hosts of
wildflowers that once in the wet seasons overran all that country from
San Bernardino to the sea,--the white sage, most honeyful of all the
sages, the poppies, gilias, cream cups, nemophilias which twenty-five
years ago were as common as meadow grass, as thick as the planted
fields of alfalfa which have usurped them. Settlers who came into
this country when the trail over the San Gorgiono had not yet hardened
between iron rails, tell of riding belly deep for miles in wild oats
and waving bloom, and where the trail goes out over the San Fernando,
toward Camulas, the yellow mustard reached its scriptural height, and
the birds of the air built their nests in it. Now and then in very
wet years a faint yellow tinge, high up under the bases of the hills,
is all that is left of the seed which, by report, the Padres sowed
along the coastwise trails, to mark where they trod the circuit of the
Missions.
Everywhere within the cañons, honeyful flowers abound, and up from the
rocky floors the slopes are stiff with chaparral. This characteristic
growth, which, seen from the open valley flooded by dry sun, appears as
a mere scurf, a roughened lichen on the mountain wall, is in reality a
riot of manzanita, mahogany, ceanothus, cherry and black sage, from ten
to fifteen feet high, all but impassable. Elsewhere in the ranges to
the north, the chaparral is loose enough to admit fern and herbaceous
plants, carpeting the earth, but here the rigid, spiny stems contend
for three or four feet, thick as the carving in old cathedral choirs,
before they attain light and air enough to put forth leaf or twig. On
the seaward side of the mountains, miles and miles of this dense growth
flow over the ranges, parted here and there by knife-edge ridges, or
by huge bosses of country rock, affording a great sweep to the eye,
reaching far to seaward. From here the lower country shrinks to its
proper proportion--a toy landscape planted with Noah's Ark trees--and
the noise of men is overlaid by the great swells of the Pacific which
come thundering in, lifting far and faint reverberations along the
ranges.
On either side of these vast conning towers it is still possible to
trace the indefinite tracks which wild creatures make, running clear
and well defined for short distances and then melting unaccountably
into the scrub again. Occasionally still they discover traces of the
wild life in which the Sierra Madre once abounded. Deer are known to
take advantage of such natural outlooks in protecting themselves from
their natural enemies, and from the evidence of frequent visits here,
bears and foxes and bobcats must have made much the same use of them.
From such high escarpments the Indians would have seen Cabrillo's
winged boats go by, and from them, all up the coast, ascended the
pillars of smoke that attended the galleon of Francis Drake.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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