Sometimes the mere mechanics of the land, the pull of the wind up the
narrow gorges as you pass, advises the open mind of power and immensity
residing in the thinly forested bulks. Passing what appears a mere
shadowy gulf in the mountain wall, you are aware of a murmurous sound
as of the sea in a shell, and feel suddenly the push of the draught
on your windshield like a great steady hand. In places above San
Bernardino, the steady pouring of invisible wind rivers has swept the
soil for miles and defied three generations of artificial plantations.
And sometimes the mountain speaks directly to the soul. I recall such
an occasion one late spring. We had been skirting the range toward
Riverside all afternoon, having the fall of the land seaward always
in view, noting how, in spite of the absurd predilection of men for
square fields and gridiron arrangements, the main lines of cultivation
were being pulled into beauty by the sheer necessity of humouring
the harvest. It was that lagging hour between the noon splendour and
the gathering of the light for its dramatic passage into night. The
orange orchards lay dead green in the hollows, unplanted ridges showed
scarcely a trace of atmospheric blueness; unlaced, unbuskined, the
land rested. And all in the falling of a leaf, in the scuttle of a
horned toad in the dust of the roadway, it lifted into eerie life. It
bared its teeth; the veil of the mountain was rent. Nothing changed,
nothing stirred or glimmered, but the land had spoken. As if it had
taken a step forward, as if a hand were raised, the mountain stood
over us. And then it sank again. While the chill was still on us, the
grip of terror, there lay the easy land, the comfortable crops, the red
geraniums about the bungalows. But never again for me would the Sierra
Madre be a mere geographical item, a feature of the landscape; it was
Power, immanent and inescapable. Shall not the mother of the land do
what she will with it?
Entering the cañons of the San Gabriel, one is struck with the
endearing quality of their charm. In a country which disdains every
sort of prettiness, and dares even to use monotony as an element of
beauty, as California does, it is surprising to find, cut in the solid
granite wall, little dells all laced with fern and saxifrage, and
wind swung, frail, flowery bells. Little streams come dashing down the
runways with an elfin movement, with here and there a miniature fall
"singing like a bird," as Muir described it, between moss-encrusted
banks.
[Illustration: GLENDALE, VALLEY OF THE SAN GABRIEL]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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