Cambridge (England) -- History; University of Cambridge -- History
"The Philosophy of Clothes," especially in its application to the
mediæval universities, is no doubt an interesting one, and may even--so,
at least, it is said by some authorities--throw much light upon the
relations of the universities to the Church. The whole subject is
discussed in some detail in the chapter on "Student Life in the Middle
Ages," in Mr. Rashdall's "History of the Universities of Europe," to
which, perhaps, it may be best to refer those of our readers who are
desirous of tracing the various steps in the gradual evolution of modern
academic dress from the antique forms. There it will be seen how the
present doctor's scarlet gown was developed from the magisterial "cappa"
or "cope," a sleeveless scarlet cloak, lined with miniver, with tippet
and hood attached of the same material--a dress which, in its original
shape, is now only to be seen in the Senate House at Cambridge, worn
by the Vice-Chancellor on Degree days; how the present gown and hood of
the Master of Arts and Bachelor is merely a development of the ordinary
clerical dress or "tabard" of the thirteenth century, which, however,
was not even exclusively clerical, and certainly not distinguished by
that sobriety of hue characteristic of modern clerical
tailordom--clerkly prejudice in the matter of the "tabard" running in
favour of green, blue, or blood red; and how the modern "mortar-board,"
or square college cap,--now usurped by undergraduates, and even
choristers and schoolboys--was originally the distinctive badge of a
Master of Faculty, being either a square cap or "biretta," with a tuft
on the top, in lieu of the very modern tassel, or a round cap or
"pileum," more or less resembling the velvet caps still worn by the
Yeomen of the Guard, or on very state occasions by the Cambridge or
Oxford doctors in medicine or law. The picturesque dress of university
students of the thirteenth century, still surviving in the long blue
coat and yellow stockings, and red leather girdle and white bands of the
boys of Christ's Hospital, is sufficient to show how much we have lost
of the warmth and colour of mediæval life by the almost universal change
to sombre black in clerical or student costume, brought about by the
Puritan austerity of the sixteenth century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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