Nowhere in the country will you find so many of these old houses; some
of them in part dating back to the fourteenth century; and Dickens
felt the charm of them. Many are now hidden behind ugly modern fronts,
but many are yet unspoiled. Doubtless some of these in St. Dunstan's
Street took in belated pilgrims who arrived after curfew and the
shutting of the city gate.
Just outside Westgate is the old Falstaff Inn, with its sign suspended
from a remarkable bracket of fifteenth-century ironwork. This reminds
us that before the era of coal mining in the north, Kentish men were
craftsmen in iron, obtaining unlimited fuel from the forest of the
Weald. Doubtless there were Kentish pikes and blades, Kentish helmets
and hauberks, at Cressy and Poitiers, at Agincourt, in the Wars of the
Roses, and at Flodden. While we are looking at old houses let us pass
through Westgate (we will return in a moment) and visit the Canterbury
Weavers, shown in our illustration. It rises sheer from the water, and
its windows "bulge" over the water, where the river crosses the
street near Eastbridge Hospital. It is, in spite of repairs and
restorations, a fifteenth-century building, and, as viewed from the
bridge, not less picturesque than a nook of Bruges or Ghent.
[Illustration: CANTERBURY FROM THE STOUR
(_Page 11_)]
Eastbridge Hospital, just opposite, belongs to the thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries, but is not a specimen of domestic architecture.
It is a charitable foundation which survived Tudor confiscations
through the intercession of Cranmer, and still shelters its aged poor.
Somewhat farther, on the same side, is No. 37, a French silk-weaver's
house, built in the fifteenth century for one of the refugees from
religious persecution. It is almost unchanged: the ground floor is the
shop, the first floor is for the family and the loom, and the story
above has its door for receiving the bales of silk hauled up from the
street.
We must not wander farther without turning to look at Westgate, the
last remaining of Canterbury's seven city gates and the best thing of
its kind in the kingdom. With its round flanking towers and its
massive portal, it takes us back in a moment to the fourteenth
century, and makes us wonder and sigh that citizens could have had the
heart to destroy its fellows. For even as late as the beginning of the
nineteenth century the walls and gates of the ancient town were almost
intact. With grim amusement, not unmixed with disgust, we recall the
story that once the Town Council was equally divided on the
proposition that it should be pulled down to admit the huge caravans
of Wombwell's Wild Beast Show. It was saved only by the casting vote
of the Mayor, to whose common sense it occurred to make a way round
it. And that Mayor, not the least of Canterbury's worthies, is not
even yet commemorated by--
"Colossal bust
Or column trophied for triumphal show".
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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