There was an earlier Norman gateway here with, oddly as it seems to
us, the Church of the Holy Cross on the top of it. In 1380 Archbishop
Simon Sudbury built the present structure and found ground space
beside it for the church. And thereby hangs a tale. Sudbury was not
only a munificent builder, but a man of vigorous mind, wise before his
time. He overtook a company of pilgrims nearing this gate, and spoke
to them very plainly on the matter of relics and pilgrimages,
declaring that no Pope or plenary indulgence could avail without the
contrite heart and the changed life. This was, be it remembered, 150
years before the Reformation, and not even from a bishop could such a
doctrine be received. The fury of the crowd found voice in the curse
flung then and there upon the preacher by one of the Kentish gentry:
"My Lord Bishop, for this act of yours, stirring the people to
sedition against St. Thomas, I stake the salvation of my soul that you
will close your life by a most terrible death". "From the beginning of
the world", adds the Chronicler, "it never has been heard that anyone
ever injured the Cathedral of Canterbury and was not punished by the
Lord." Eleven years later, for his share in the hated Poll-tax, the
Archbishop was dragged out of the Tower of London by the rebels under
Wat Tyler and beheaded. His body was buried in the choir of the
Cathedral, and when uncovered accidentally was found to have a leaden
ball in the place of the head, which is still preserved at his native
Sudbury.
From Westgate the main street, under as many _aliases_ as a hardened
criminal, starting as St. Peter's Street, continuing as High Street,
Parade, and St. George's Street, runs the whole length of the city,
with quaint and curious dwellings on either hand. If we were real
pilgrims, and had walked or ridden all the way from London, we should
make at once for "The Chequers of the Hope" mentioned in the
supplementary Canterbury Tale. It is only a few hundred yards away,
where Mercery Lane turns off to the left, and has, or had, its
dormitory of a hundred beds. Alas! it was burned down in 1865, and we
shall recognize it only by a modern carving of the Black Prince's
crest--the leopard with protruding tongue--on the stone corner of the
house where the two streets meet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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