ankles, so much being supposed to be buried in the sand. Nevertheless,
natives of Provincetown assured me that they could walk in the middle
of the road without trouble even in slippers, for they had learned how
to put their feet down and lift them up without taking in any sand. One
man said that he should be surprised if he found half a dozen grains of
sand in his pumps at night, and stated, moreover, that the young ladies
had a dexterous way of emptying their shoes at each step, which it
would take a stranger a long time to learn. The tires of the
stage-wheels were about five inches wide; and the wagon-tires generally
on the Cape are an inch or two wider, as the sand is an inch or two
deeper than elsewhere. I saw a baby’s wagon with tires six inches wide
to keep it near the surface. The more tired the wheels, the less tired
the horses. Yet all the time that we were in Provincetown, which was
two days and nights, we saw only one horse and cart, and they were
conveying a coffin. They did not try such experiments there on common
occasions. The next summer I saw only the two-wheeled horse-cart which
conveyed me thirty rods into the harbor on my way to the steamer. Yet
we read that there were two horses and two yoke of oxen here in 1791,
and we were told that there were several more when we were there,
beside the stage team. In Barber’s Historical Collections, it is said,
“So rarely are wheel-carriages seen in the place that they are a matter
of some curiosity to the younger part of the community. A lad who
understood navigating the ocean much better than land travel, on seeing
a man driving a wagon in the street, expressed his surprise at his
being able to drive so straight without the assistance of a rudder.”
There was no rattle of carts, and there would have been no rattle if
there had been any carts. Some saddle-horses that passed the hotel in
the evening merely made the sand fly with a rustling sound like a
writer sanding his paper copiously, but there was no sound of their
tread. No doubt there are more horses and carts there at present. A
sleigh is never seen, or at least is a great novelty on the Cape, the
snow being either absorbed by the sand or blown into drifts.
Nevertheless, the inhabitants of the Cape generally do not complain of
their “soil,” but will tell you that it is good enough for them to dry
their fish on.
Notwithstanding all this sand, we counted three meeting-houses, and
four school-houses nearly as large, on this street, though some had a
tight board fence about them to preserve the plot within level and
hard. Similar fences, even within a foot of many of the houses, gave
the town a less cheerful and hospitable appearance than it would
otherwise have had. They told us that, on the whole, the sand had made
no progress for the last ten years, the cows being no longer permitted
to go at large, and every means being taken to stop the sandy tide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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