You need dig only a few feet almost anywhere near the shore of the Cape
to find fresh water. But that which we tasted was invariably poor.
though the inhabitants called it good, as if they were comparing it
with salt water. In the account of Truro, it is said. “Wells dug near
the shore are dry at low water, or rather at what is called young
flood, but are replenished with the flowing of the tide,”—- the salt
water, which is lowest in the sand, apparently forcing the fresh up.
When you express your surprise at the greenness of a Provincetown
garden on the beach, in a dry season, they will sometimes tell you that
the tide forces the moisture up to them. It is an interesting fact that
low sand-bars in the midst of the ocean, perhaps even those which are
laid bare only at low tide, are reservoirs of fresh water at which the
thirsty mariner can supply himself. They appear, like huge sponges, to
hold the rain and dew which fall on them, and which, by capillary
attraction, are prevented from mingling with the surrounding brine.
The Harbor of Provincetown—which, as well as the greater part of the
Bay, and a wide expanse of ocean, we overlooked from our perch—is
deservedly famous. It opens to the south, is free from rocks, and is
never frozen over. It is said that the only ice seen in it drifts in
sometimes from Barnstable or Plymouth. Dwight remarks that “The storms
which prevail on the American coast generally come from the east; and
there is no other harbor on a windward shore within two hundred miles.”
J. D. Graham, who has made a very minute and thorough survey of this
harbor and the adjacent waters, states that “its capacity, depth of
water, excellent anchorage, and the complete shelter it affords from
all winds, combine to render it one of the most valuable ship harbors
on our coast.” It is _the_ harbor of the Cape and of the fishermen of
Massachusetts generally. It was known to navigators several years at
least before the settlement of Plymouth. In Captain John Smith’s map of
New England, dated 1614, it bears the name of Milford Haven, and
Massachusetts Bay that of Stuard’s Bay. His Highness, Prince Charles,
changed the name of Cape Cod to Cape James; but even princes have not
always power to change a name for the worse, and as Cotton Mather said,
Cape Cod is “a name which I suppose it will never lose till shoals of
codfish be seen swimming on its highest hills.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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