Still we kept on in the rain, or, if we stopped, it was commonly at a
post-office, and we thought that writing letters, and sorting them
against our arrival, must be the principal employment of the
inhabitants of the Cape this rainy day. The post-office appeared a
singularly domestic institution here. Ever and anon the stage stopped
before some low shop or dwelling, and a wheelwright or shoemaker
appeared in his shirt sleeves and leather apron, with spectacles newly
donned, holding up Uncle Sam’s bag, as if it were a slice of home-made
cake, for the travellers, while he retailed some piece of gossip to the
driver, really as indifferent to the presence of the former as if they
were so much baggage. In one instance we understood that a woman was
the postmistress, and they said that she made the best one on the road;
but we suspected that the letters must be subjected to a very close
scrutiny there. While we were stopping for this purpose at Dennis, we
ventured to put our heads out of the windows, to see where we were
going, and saw rising before us, through the mist, singular barren
hills, all stricken with poverty-grass, looming up as if they were in
the horizon, though they were close to us, and we seemed to have got to
the end of the land on that side, notwithstanding that the horses were
still headed that way. Indeed, that part of Dennis which we saw was an
exceedingly barren and desolate country, of a character which I can
find no name for; such a surface, perhaps, as the bottom of the sea
made dry land day before yesterday. It was covered with poverty-grass,
and there was hardly a tree in sight, but here and there a little
weather-stained, one-storied house, with a red roof,—for often the roof
was painted, though the rest of the house was not,—standing bleak and
cheerless, yet with a broad foundation to the land, where the comfort
must have been all inside. Yet we read in the Gazetteer—for we carried
that too with us—that, in 1837, one hundred and fifty masters of
vessels, belonging to this town, sailed from the various ports of the
Union. There must be many more houses in the south part of the town,
else we cannot imagine where they all lodge when they are at home, if
ever they are there; but the truth is, their houses are floating ones,
and their home is on the ocean. There were almost no trees at all in
this part of Dennis, nor could I learn that they talked of setting out
any. It is true, there was a meeting-house, set round with Lombardy
poplars, in a hollow square, the rows fully as straight as the studs of
a building, and the corners as square; but, if I do not mistake, every
one of them was dead. I could not help thinking that they needed a
revival here. Our book said that, in 1795, there was erected in Dennis
“an elegant meeting-house, with a steeple.” Perhaps this was the one;
though whether it had a steeple, or had died down so far from sympathy
with the poplars, I do not remember. Another meeting-house in this town
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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