Dyeing by hand, although superseded almost entirely by machine-dyeing,
is still employed in some cases, particularly where only small
quantities are required. The dye-vat is of wood, and should be a
well-made piece of joinery to withstand the wear and tear incidental to
its use. Round the bottom on the inside is fitted a tube of copper or
some acid-resisting metal, perforated with small holes, through which
steam is passed to heat up the water. The head dyer weighs out the
dyestuffs estimated to produce a shade a fraction below the required
shade, so as to admit of final adjustment after testing. This, of
course, applies equally to hand or machine-dyeing. For hand vats, the
skeins of scoured yarn are hung on a set of poles, which, when filled,
are placed on brackets above the vat. When the dyestuff has been put in,
and the water brought to the required temperature, a pair of workmen,
each holding one end of the poles, standing on each side, sets them on
the edge of the vat and lets the free ends of the skeins sink down into
the liquor. When all the poles are in place, the operators start on the
pole at one end, and, raising each skein in turn, draw it over a few
inches, so that the part which has hitherto remained outside the liquor
is now immersed. When the skeins on one stick are finished, that stick
is pushed a little way along and the next is treated similarly. When the
whole set is done, the operation is repeated. The essence of the
treatment is to keep the yarn moving. If the skeins were allowed to
remain in the same place, even after the first moving, there would be
“stick marks” at the point where the skein rested on the pole, because
the liquor would not have had as much access to this place as to the
rest of the skeins.
After an hour or so, or when sufficient time has been allowed for the
dyestuffs to permeate the yarn fibres, the poles are lifted on to the
brackets, and a skein is taken out and submitted to the head dyer for
matching. The head dyer will compare it with his standard, and, in the
case of dyeing to match a cut-pile or tufted fabric such as Wilton or
Axminster, he will probably make a tuft from a thread of the sample
skein, so as to compare the shade of the cut ends as well as of the
outside of the thread. He will then make the necessary corrections or
additions to the dye-bath if the exact shade has not been reached, and
the operation will be continued until he is satisfied. The poles are
then finally lifted, removed from above the vat to a horse; the yarn is
then stripped from the poles and passed to the hydro-extractor prior to
going on to the stove or drying machine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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