The pitch of the warp varies, of course, according to the character and
quality of the fur to be made, the scales, indicating the number of sets
of warp threads to the yard, being, normally, either 28, 38, 56, 76, or
112. On an ordinary weft loom, making a fabric 42 in. wide, on a 76
scale, there will be 88 strips, which will make two repeats of a certain
portion, say 4½ in. long, of 44 carpets. The average length of the woven
strip is about 48 yards.
[Illustration: FIG. 11
CHENILLE DESIGN PAPER CUT UP]
The weaver has to insert by hand the shuttle carrying the required
colour to match the square or squares on the painted strip of design
paper, count the number of shots needed, stop the loom, change the
shuttle and re-start the loom; so that it will be seen that quickness of
eye and dexterity are required.
A mechanical device has been invented for changing the shuttles; but it
is not automatic, and does not appear to present any distinct advantage
over the method of changing by hand; and it can only be employed with a
limited number of colours.
The fabric is beaten up from 12 to 20 shots per inch, according to the
quality of the fur required; but the closer beats up are only suitable
for worsted yarn.
[Illustration: FIG. 12
CHENILLE CLOTH]
The next process is the fur-cutting. The roll of cloth with its
horizontal stripes is taken to the cutting machine, where it is cut into
strips by a series of knives set upon a revolving cylinder, and spaced
so that they sever the woollen weft-threads as the fabric passes over
the cutting bed, and leave the independent strips of fur held together
by the fine cotton warp.
[Illustration: FIG. 13
FUR AFTER CUTTING. CUT AND FOLDED.
TRANSVERSE SECTION SHOWING FUR INSERTED]
Immediately after being cut free, these strips of fur pass over a jet of
steam and a steam-heated cylinder, whose surface is formed with a series
of V-shaped grooves. This has the result of folding upwards the cut ends
of the woollen yarn, and giving a permanent V-shape in section to the
fur. The object of this is that when the fur comes to be woven, its pile
shall all be turned in one direction. The damping of the fur just before
the grooved cylinder is sometimes effected by rollers revolving in a
trough filled with water.
The newly formed fur is then reeled off into individual skeins. It is
marked both with its pattern number and series number, and sorted into
its proper sets.
For a carpet 9 ft. wide beaten up 4 shots per inch, it will be seen that
each inch in the length of the carpet will require no less than 12 yards
of fur weft, so that a strip of fur 48 yards long will only weave 4
inches; and if the repeat of a design be a yard long, 9 series of fur
strips will be needed. The fur strips are, therefore, sorted into their
sets and numbered from 1 to 9 for a 1 yard repeat, or as the case may
be; and are stored in bundles of skeins until required.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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