We now come to the second part of Chenille manufacture, the weaving up
of the fur into the carpet. This is done on a setting loom, which may be
regarded for the present purpose as normally of a width of 9 ft. or
upwards. This is not saying that Chenille is not woven in narrower
widths, for Chenille is woven in pieces 27 in. and 36 in. wide, and a
very large business is done in rugs of various widths between about the
same limits.
When a carpet is ordered, the fur in bundles of skeins is handed out to
the cop-winder, whose duty it is to wind the skeins on to cops for use
in the setting loom, and to serve them to the weavers in their proper
order. Cops are always the same size, but the length of carpet that a
cop will weave depends, of course, on the width of the carpet.
The setting loom is prepared for work by the threading of ends of warp
from various beams through eyelets carried on gear frames, in much the
same way as in a Brussels or Wilton loom. Indeed, this principle is
common to all woven fabrics, varying only in its application, that is to
say, in the number and arrangement of the warp beams, the yarn employed,
and the pitch.
[Illustration: FIG. 14
SECTION OF CHENILLE AXMINSTER
A, Chenille fur
C, Fur wefts
D, Catcher warp
E, Float warp
F, Stuffer warp
G, Chain
H, Filling weft]
In a typical Chenille carpet, such as that which is beaten up 4 to the
inch, as above mentioned, the pitch of the design will be 12 or 13 per
inch (the beat-up of the weft), and of the sley 7, though, indeed, the
latter is arbitrary, and need bear no relation to the fur. There will be
three warp beams, the catcher beam, the chain beam, and the stuffer
beam. A fourth is often added, called the float. The catcher warp
consists of fine cotton, coloured in some neutral shade, so as to be as
nearly invisible as possible, its function being merely to hold down the
fur weft when it is inserted into the fabric. The chain, or ground warp,
which is generally of jute yarn, is double, and is threaded on to two
gears, which rise and fall alternately as in Brussels. The stuffer or
dead warp, also of jute, runs straight into the fabric, and gives it
substance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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