GROUND PLAN OF THE CHÂTEAU DE FOIX (Diagram) 190 CHÂTEAU DE FOIX _facing_ 190 KEY OF THE VAULTING, CHÂTEAU DE FOIX, SHOWING THE ARMS OF THE COMTES DE FOIX 191 TARASCON-SUR-ARIÈGE _facing_ 202 CHÂTEAU DE LOURDAT _facing_ 210 ST. LIZIER _facing_ 216 TRAINED BEARS OF THE VALLÉE D'USTOU _facing_ 218 ST. BERTRAND DE COMMINGES _facing_ 224 PAU AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY (Map) 258 ARMS OF THE CITY OF PAU 259 CHÂTEAU DE PAU _facing_ 268 ESPADRILLE-MAKERS _facing_ 288 A SHEPHERD OF BIGORRE _facing_ 302 CHÂTEAU DE COARRAZE _facing_ 308 CHÂTEAU DE LOURDES _facing_ 314 CAUTERETS _facing_ 318 THE PONT D'ORTHEZ _facing_ 338 THE WALLS OF NAVARREUX _facing_ 346 BÉARN AND NAVARRE (Map) 354 KINGS OF BASSE-NAVARRE AND KINGS OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE (Diagram) 360 THE ARMS OF NAVARRE 362 ARMS OF HENRI IV OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE _facing_ 368 THE BASQUE COUNTRY (Map) 372 THE GAME OF _PELOTA_ _facing_ 378 "LE CHEVALET" _facing_ 390 THE QUAINT STREETS OF SAINT-JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT _facing_ 394 ARMS OF BAYONNE 413 A GATEWAY OF BAYONNE _facing_ 414 BIARRITZ AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY (Map) 422 BIARRITZ _facing_ 424 ST.-JEAN-DE-LUZ _facing_ 430 ILE DE FAISANS (Map) 437 THE FRONTIER AT HENDAYE (Map) 441 MAISON PIERRE LOTI, HENDAYE _facing_ 442 IN OLD FEUNTARRABIA _facing_ 446 [Illustration: The PYRENEAN PROVINCES] Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces CHAPTER I A GENERAL SURVEY This book is no record of exploitation or discovery; it is simply a review of many things seen and heard anent that marvellous and comparatively little known region vaguely described as "the Pyrenees," of which the old French provinces (and before them the independent kingdoms, countships and dukedoms) of Béarn, Navarre, Foix and Roussillon are the chief and most familiar.