Chambers's journal of popular literature, science, and art, fifth series, no. 119, vol. III, April 4, 1886Various
History
Chambers's journal of popular literature, science, and art, fifth series, no. 119, vol. III, April 4, 1886
Various
Periodicals
the rapidity with which the work is done, and with the skill shown in
dealing with flaws in the leather. Here, for example, is a skin with a
hole in the best part of it about the size of a shilling; with seeming
rashness, the man cuts the leather so that that very hole comes into
one of the oblong squares. We call attention to the fact, when, with a
smile, he points out that at that precise point a hole will be required
for the thumb-piece.
The pieces of leather, called in the trade ‘trancs’—for they are no
longer skins—are now passed on to another room, where they are cut into
their final shape. Hitherto, we have been dealing with the preparation
of the material for gloves, and a stranger might have followed all the
processes so far without gathering from what he saw any indication of
the use to be made of these pieces of leather. But now they begin to
assume a shape which cannot be mistaken. The reader, especially the
fair reader, has doubtless often seen, if not used, the shapes with
which pastry is cut into leaves, circles, squares, and so on. Now, if
you will put your two hands together, palms uppermost, and imagine a
shape that would cut out the figure made by these two hands, minus the
thumbs, and treating the two little fingers as one, you will have a
very fair idea of a glover’s punch or ‘web.’ In the room we now enter
we find quite a number of these punches, agreeing with the number
of sizes manufactured. One of them is laid on a sliding table edge
uppermost; then six of these oblong squares of leather—which have been
placed face to face in pairs, so that right and left hand gloves may be
cut together—are laid upon it, and covered with a thick pad of wood or
vulcanite. The table is pushed forward until the punch and its burden
rest under an iron press, not unlike a printing-press. One pull at the
powerful lever, and the press comes down, and the leather is cut. The
thumb-pieces are next treated in the same manner. Up the back of every
pair of gloves there are three lines of ornamental work of some kind.
If these gloves are to have the heavy silk-work on the back called
tambouring, they will now be laid upon a block and punctured with as
many holes as there are to be stitches in the tambour-work. Before
leaving this room, the size of the gloves is stamped on the inside of
one, and a consecutive or matching number is written inside each of the
two pieces of leather that are now an embryo pair of gloves, so that
if, in any of the subsequent processes, they should be accidentally
separated, they may be identified and brought together again. After
they have been looked over and carefully perfected with scissors
wherever the punch may have left a jagged edge, they are ready to
resume their travels.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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